EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering the benefits of seasonality for maximizing climbing performance, rehabbing and preventing common knee injuries while heel hooking, and off-the-wall strength training for climbers. See the show notes for the full articles here.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/four-pts

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:16) – Overview

(00:07:52) – Sarah’s topic (the case for taking a break)

(00:10:24) – What Sarah’s research process looked like

(00:11:22) – Surprises in Sarah’s research process

(00:12:35) – Recommendations on when to take time off

(00:15:48) – How to sustain stoke

(00:18:04) – How climbing ability solidifies over time

(00:20:56) – If Sarah did a follow-up study

(00:28:38) – Dawson’s topic (heel hooking and knee injuries)

(00:33:22) – Common heel hook injuries

(00:35:20) – Go to hip mobility exercises

(00:39:00) – Heel hooking warm-ups

(00:41:01) – Surprises in Dawson's research

(00:43:27) – If Dawson did a follow-up study

(00:49:28) – Michael's topic (off the wall strength training)

(00:52:10) – How often should climbers weight train

(00:55:34) – At what point are you strong enough

(01:02:59) – Comparing athletes

(01:09:47) – Stability-focused exercises

(01:19:18) – Value in taking time off

(01:21:19) – Jared's final thoughts

Jaksot(381)

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into ...

7 Kesä 20211h 18min

EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core

EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core

Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route...

31 Touko 20212h 6min

Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked ab...

27 Touko 202123min

EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief

EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief

Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15...

24 Touko 20212h 28min

EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature

EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature

Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbin...

17 Touko 20212h 24min

Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary ...

13 Touko 202115min

EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck

EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck

Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sp...

10 Touko 20212h 6min

EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, ...

3 Touko 20212h 2min

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