EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering the benefits of seasonality for maximizing climbing performance, rehabbing and preventing common knee injuries while heel hooking, and off-the-wall strength training for climbers. See the show notes for the full articles here.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/four-pts

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:16) – Overview

(00:07:52) – Sarah’s topic (the case for taking a break)

(00:10:24) – What Sarah’s research process looked like

(00:11:22) – Surprises in Sarah’s research process

(00:12:35) – Recommendations on when to take time off

(00:15:48) – How to sustain stoke

(00:18:04) – How climbing ability solidifies over time

(00:20:56) – If Sarah did a follow-up study

(00:28:38) – Dawson’s topic (heel hooking and knee injuries)

(00:33:22) – Common heel hook injuries

(00:35:20) – Go to hip mobility exercises

(00:39:00) – Heel hooking warm-ups

(00:41:01) – Surprises in Dawson's research

(00:43:27) – If Dawson did a follow-up study

(00:49:28) – Michael's topic (off the wall strength training)

(00:52:10) – How often should climbers weight train

(00:55:34) – At what point are you strong enough

(01:02:59) – Comparing athletes

(01:09:47) – Stability-focused exercises

(01:19:18) – Value in taking time off

(01:21:19) – Jared's final thoughts

Jaksot(381)

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win

EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win

Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, d...

5 Elo 20241h 30min

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