EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering the benefits of seasonality for maximizing climbing performance, rehabbing and preventing common knee injuries while heel hooking, and off-the-wall strength training for climbers. See the show notes for the full articles here.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/four-pts

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:16) – Overview

(00:07:52) – Sarah’s topic (the case for taking a break)

(00:10:24) – What Sarah’s research process looked like

(00:11:22) – Surprises in Sarah’s research process

(00:12:35) – Recommendations on when to take time off

(00:15:48) – How to sustain stoke

(00:18:04) – How climbing ability solidifies over time

(00:20:56) – If Sarah did a follow-up study

(00:28:38) – Dawson’s topic (heel hooking and knee injuries)

(00:33:22) – Common heel hook injuries

(00:35:20) – Go to hip mobility exercises

(00:39:00) – Heel hooking warm-ups

(00:41:01) – Surprises in Dawson's research

(00:43:27) – If Dawson did a follow-up study

(00:49:28) – Michael's topic (off the wall strength training)

(00:52:10) – How often should climbers weight train

(00:55:34) – At what point are you strong enough

(01:02:59) – Comparing athletes

(01:09:47) – Stability-focused exercises

(01:19:18) – Value in taking time off

(01:21:19) – Jared's final thoughts

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Jaksot(390)

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign...

23 Loka 20242h 56min

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition,...

21 Loka 20241h 38min

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs,...

17 Loka 202432min

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the em...

14 Loka 20241h 16min

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her ...

7 Loka 20242h 3min

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. ...

30 Syys 20241h 41min

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, w...

23 Syys 20241h 18min

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

19 Syys 202443min

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