Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint

Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint

I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip.

I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt to improve your boulder or route projecting.

RUNDOWN

0:30 - And now for something completely different -- I hope you love this podcast!

6:18 - Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send.

13:40 - Session 1: Sussing out the project.

15:40 - Session 2: Getting down to business...

16:20 - Address fears first. Working the first of 4 "chucks"....the unpleasant slab start.

22:52 - Working Chuck #2 - power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation.

32:20 - Pro Tip: Taking "mental snapshots" of key holds.

34:25 - Dismissing phantom fears...

37:48 - Working chuck #3...the redpoint crux.

41:10 - Dialing in chuck #4...the anchor run.

44:00 - Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?)

50:40 - Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

52:00 - HERCULES on my mind...for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas.

57:27 - Session 3 - Mother Nature provides a chance...but could Eric take down Hercules?

1:05:10 - Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint go -- a look inside the mind of Coach Horst.

1:12:00 - Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Tämä jakso on lisätty Podme-palveluun avoimen RSS-syötteen kautta eikä se ole Podmen omaa tuotantoa. Siksi jakso saattaa sisältää mainontaa.

Jaksot(100)

#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send

#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send

Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just ...

9 Kesä 57min

#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story

#129 - WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story

In this inspiring new "Weekend Crushers" feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending...

17 Touko 34min

#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story

#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story

In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what's possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect wit...

28 Huhti 57min

#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap

#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap

After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes...

7 Huhti 35min

#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!

#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!

Spring climbing season is here—and it's time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips t...

10 Maalis 20min

#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid

#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid

In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a "flipped" or re-prioritized food pyramid that emp...

5 Helmi 51min

#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life

#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life

If there's one podcast you listen to this week, I hope it's this one! I'm genuinely proud of this episode, as it distills some of the most powerful concepts I've learned, refined, and applied over the...

6 Tammi 42min

#123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design

#123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design

In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in Episode #122 and brings it down to earth with practical, actionable guidance. T...

15 Joulu 202532min

Suosittua kategoriassa Terveys ja hyvinvointi

unicast
tiedenaiset-podcast
meditaatiot-suomeksi
vakeva-elama-viisaampi-mieli-vahvempi-keho
terapiassa
rss-kuumilla-aalloilla
rss-pitaisko-erota
psykopodiaa-podcast
hippokrateen-vastaanotolla
voi-hyvin-meditaatiot-2
paritellen
selviytyjat-tarinoita-elamasta
fitnessvastaanotto
rss-rentoudu-podcast-rentoutumiseen-hanna-viljanmaa
onnen-kuplia
junnut-pelissa
rss-uplevel-by-sonja-hannus
rss-nautinto
rss-terapiaklubi
rss-hereilla