EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy!squamish.arcteryxacademy.cominstagram.com/arcteryxacademyCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williamsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:50) – Gaming(00:05:13) – Overview(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing(00:11:12) – His first V10(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed(00:25:31) – What makes a good session(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days(00:30:51) – Friction control(00:34:46) – Bad tactics(00:39:15) – Feeling strong(00:41:17) – No regrets(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS(00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground(01:05:43) – More finger training(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy(01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style(01:24:22) – Static projects(01:26:01) – Feats of strength(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations(01:37:14) – Skin products(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off(01:44:34) – Not forcing it(01:47:38) – Working with a coach(01:51:22) – Life balance(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans(02:02:01) – More ROTS(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

22 Apr 20242h 16min

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.Book a Session With Neely:trainingbeta.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoes We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Neely’s breakfast(00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist’s rest days(00:04:32) – Overview of our chat(00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life(00:12:09) – The discomfort goal(00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider’ 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again(00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail(00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching(00:22:28) – Self-talk(00:23:09) – The role of a life coach(00:24:35) – Mindset tools(00:28:40) – Email apnea(00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do(00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session(01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s(01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach(01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on(01:15:29) – Gremlin work(01:26:45) – Getting out of depression(01:30:38) – Toil(01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred(01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value(01:35:52) – Respect and envy(01:38:27) – Our homework(01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven(01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot(01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment(01:53:20) – Where to find Neely(01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach(01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

15 Apr 20241h 59min

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenziNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi(00:05:37) – Early climbing(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength(00:29:17) – External pressure(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C(00:36:09) – Optimism(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals(01:17:31) – Future competition plans(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b(01:42:18) – Support from his dad(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

8 Apr 20241h 49min

Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more!Watch the Film:SENDING | MHWsending.filmBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 212: Carlos Mason — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-masonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Carlos’ introduction to climbing(00:04:49) – Getting into filmmaking(00:06:09) – Bishop(00:11:34) – His vision for the film(00:14:59) – Cars(00:21:21) – Writing the narrative(00:28:31) – Friends(00:36:55) – Choosing the cast(00:47:28) – Choosing the climbs(00:52:16) – Ethan’s bat hang(00:55:25) – Dan and ‘The Process’(01:04:46) – Choosing the music(01:14:55) – Post-production(01:21:38) – Recording VO(01:24:57) – Behind-the-scenes content(01:29:05) – Where to watch the film(01:29:32) – What’s next for Carlos(01:31:54) – Thanks and sponsors(01:33:57) – How lucky we are to climb

1 Apr 20241h 35min

Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/davis-ngoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:40) – Photo collages(00:03:36) – Bishop(00:06:21) – My introduction to dr.climb(00:07:52) – Growing up(00:12:11) – Getting into climbing(00:14:01) – Becoming a Physical Therapist(00:16:47) – Graduating during covid(00:18:48) – Blowing up on Instagram(00:22:24) – 69k(00:23:51) – Playing the game(00:32:09) – Who deserves to get paid in climbing?(00:44:42) – The progression of climbing(00:49:11) – Davis’ career(00:51:49) – Overwhelmed(00:54:15) – Self-esteem and social media(01:03:04) – Doing what you love(01:06:15) – Inclusion and giving back(01:09:26) – ‘Haroun’ as his first V11(01:12:41) – A year of injuries(01:18:01) – What changed after his back injury(01:23:49) – Backing off sketchy topouts(01:26:34) – “I just f*cking love it.”(01:35:25) – Overcoming fear after his back injury(01:41:54) – Trying highballs again(01:46:13) – Internet break(01:47:34) – SAMI sponsorship(01:52:03) – Creating a bouldering competition in Bishop(01:58:49) – How to support Davis(02:01:47) – Name suggestions(02:02:55) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

25 Mar 20242h 7min

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:28) – Young Stefano(00:08:18) – Humor and fun(00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing(00:14:20) – The whole process(00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence’ 9c(00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible(00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence’(00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence’ and ‘Excalibur’ 9b+(00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence’(00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance(00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur’ and ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A(00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur’ with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi(01:02:14) – The sword earring(01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur’ got its name(01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble’ 8c+/9a(01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history(01:14:48) – Stefano’s climbing heroes(01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil’ 9a+(01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength(01:22:52) – Sara’s health challenges(01:29:29) – Supporting one another(01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

18 Mar 20241h 37min

Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmermanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Daddy style(00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley(00:12:23) – The recipe for success(00:14:32) – How I related to the book(00:19:03) – Graham’s injury in New Zealand(00:21:54) – The Burger King story(00:24:04) – Falling for mountains(00:30:24) – The mystery of passion(00:32:07) – Mark Allen(00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard?(00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents(00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places(00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan(00:57:48) – Shannon(01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose(01:08:30) – Getting engaged(01:16:13) – Loss and risk(01:25:58) – K2 and climate(01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy(01:43:15) – Voting(01:50:40) – Energy and water(01:51:39) – POW(01:52:29) – Don’t stop climbing(01:54:11) – Graham’s book and EXTRA teaser

11 Mar 20241h 58min

Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-grupperNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:44) – Infusions for Ulcerative Colitis(00:06:40) – Jesse’s nomadic lifestyle(00:08:26) – Training trips(00:18:30) – Almost quitting competitions(00:23:05) – Getting bullied for climbing as a kid(00:27:45) – Climbing as an art form(00:30:12) – Asking yourself questions(00:38:05) – Optimistic Training(00:45:05) – Pessimism is lazy(00:47:54) – Frustration(00:50:58) – Support(00:53:16) – Each of us is a body of water(00:57:20) – Was Jesse a natural at climbing?(01:00:07) – Turning around his bouldering(01:04:44) – Strategy for the Olympics(01:07:47) – Training with circuits(01:13:40) – Balance(01:21:12) – Soft robotics(01:30:48) – “Take it easy, but take it.”(01:32:17) – What Jesse wishes we thought more about(01:35:20) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

4 Mar 20241h 39min