Inner Fire Climbing Podcast8 Mai 2025

#8 - Juliet Hammer

In this episode I chat with Juliet Hammer and her dog Addy. Juliet is a climbing coach and an experienced boulderer and sport climber. She has a degree in biology and she's a certified strength and conditioning specialist. We talked about:

Juliet's climbing history
Differences between bouldering and sport in terms of preparation, mindset and tactics
Being a short climber
Board climbing
Coaching philosophy and shop talk
Personal grades
Social media, content creation and voluntary hardship
Value capture as both a coach and climber
Dangers of focusing on dopamine hits

00:00:00 Intro 00:02:43 Juliet's sport/bouldering identity & seasonality 00:16:02 Proper introduction, comp/cordo climbing, coaching indoors vs outdoor clients 00:25:27 Board climbing & being a short climber 00:30:31 Strength training 00:37:27 Coaching philosophy and shop talk 00:48:07 More short climber tips, self-comparison 00:54:43 Personal grades and the toxic wasteland of 8a.nu 01:00:41 Motivations 01:02:38 Jesse is ignorant about the southeast and complains about summer 01:05:51 More seasonality / sport & boulder logistics questions 01:08:08 Hot take 1, is climbing harder always more fun? 01:12:28 Hot take 2, are sport climbers better climbers? 01:13:56 Sport climbing vs bouldering popularity and value for progression 01:16:37 Content strategy and value capture as a content creator and coach 01:26:33 Dopamine hits, voluntary hardship, video beta and availability bias 01:42:55 Addy 01:45:09 Work with Juliet

Denne episoden er hentet fra en åpen RSS-feed og er ikke publisert av Podme. Den kan derfor inneholde annonser.

Episoder(39)

#39 - May AMA

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:41 - Anthony - Balancing outdoor climbing with training 0:07:40 - Rob - Pacing, breathing,...

4 Jun 33min

#38 - Henry Davis

Henry Davis is a professional routesetter and coach based in Austin, TX. He coached and set for Team Texas, set for multiple training centers, and is one of the founders of the future climbing gym, Th...

21 Mai 1h 38min

#37 - April AMA

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:30 Ethan – Strength and finger training after an outdoor session 0:05:05 Josh – Improving ...

7 Mai 43min

#36 - Karly Rager

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Pro...

30 Apr 1h 46min

#35 - Juliana Merighi

Dr. Juliana Merighi is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist, and a Board Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. She offers a pelvic physical therapy ...

16 Apr 1h 45min

#34 - March AMA

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:01:02 Anthony - Managing fatigue / autoregulation with self-coaching 00:05:49 Josh - Body re...

2 Apr 37min

# 33 - Rocco Bocchicchio

Rocco Bocchicchio is one of the OG developers of Joe's Valley and has been climbing for 28 years. He has spent much of his climbing career on the road and is currently based near Joe's where he contin...

26 Mar 2h 7min

# 32 - February AMA

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:03:15 Cian - What do you think of the Pro Climbing League? 0:08:20 Sam - Ethics discussions o...

12 Mar 48min