EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!

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Jesse’s Original Episode:

EP 127: Jesse Firestone

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:26) – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!

(00:04:12) – Why picking the right project matters

(00:05:41) – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA

(00:07:05) – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO

(00:09:39) – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR

(00:11:34) – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR

(00:15:58) – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR

(00:17:04) – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy

(00:18:09) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?

(00:21:03) – Bonus Tip: Know thyself

(00:22:08) – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute

(00:24:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation

(00:27:16) – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing

(00:27:56) – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)

(00:29:55) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty

(00:33:55) – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you

(00:37:27) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list, and not leaving room for serendipity

(00:40:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways

(00:42:13) – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA

(00:43:00) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)

(00:45:35) – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt

(00:48:00) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move

(00:50:45) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!)

(00:53:02) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge

(00:54:20) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there

(00:54:50) – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects

(00:56:37) – Summaries are in the show notes!

(00:57:17) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring

(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

Episoder(384)

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EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

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EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign...

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EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition,...

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Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs,...

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EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the em...

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EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her ...

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EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

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