Everest 2026: The Western Team's Turn, My Summit Anniversary

Everest 2026: The Western Team's Turn, My Summit Anniversary

After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it's time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we've discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now.

On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I'm announcing my upcoming memoir: Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida.

Also a narrative on climbing from the South Col to Everest's summit.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything


https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/21/everest-2026-the-western-teams-turn-my-summit-anniversary/

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Episoder(199)

Broad Peak 2026 Lessons From a Tragedy

Broad Peak 2026 Lessons From a Tragedy

Two weeks ago today, on July 30, 2026, ten climbers died in a single avalanche on Broad Peak. The event has received extensive media coverage, in part because Nirmal “Nims” Purja, one of the most cons...

14 Aug 27min

Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: No O's Everest Update and Plans

Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: No O's Everest Update and Plans

Ryan Mitchell, a former Summit Coach client, planned to climb two 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett, but not everything went ...

6 Aug 52min

Madalin (Cris) Cristea's Everest 2026 Sea-Summit-Sea Podcast

Madalin (Cris) Cristea's Everest 2026 Sea-Summit-Sea Podcast

Romanian Madalin (Cris) Cristea, 34, summitted Everest on May 20, the busiest day of the season, along with 273 other people. But he didn't just "summit"; he summited after walking 1,125 kilometers (a...

3 Jul 1h 50min

Denali 2026 Coverage: Podcast with Summiteer - John Bartolic

Denali 2026 Coverage: Podcast with Summiteer - John Bartolic

The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to...

17 Jun 55min

Everest 2026 Season Summary–Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds

Everest 2026 Season Summary–Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds

Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That's my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, "normal."The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. T...

3 Jun 32min

Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update Record Season Over & 1 More Death?

Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update Record Season Over & 1 More Death?

The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close, marked by delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, and challenging climbing – yet despite the dramatic mainstream press headlines,...

31 Mai 11min

Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update Nearing the End

Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update Nearing the End

What a week on Everest and Lhotse. The first Everest summits were on May 13 by the rope team, plus a few fast followers. Then the jet came in and stopped everyone, and when it left, well, hundreds sum...

24 Mai 25min

Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths

Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths

A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. Th...

22 Mai 9min

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