Coach Joy Black: Groundbreaking Study on Climbing While Pregnant, Busy Climber Tips, and My Pelvic Floor

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Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss:

• How to make a 30-min session count
• Removing friction to start workouts faster
• Being strong doesn’t mean being good
• Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant
• How dangerous is falling while pregnant?
• Helpful signs to know when to end a session
• Postpartum training and climbing
• I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you)
• Listener Q&A

Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: joy@trainedbyjoy.com

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why This Paper Matters 00:48 Meet Joy Black 05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges 08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency 13:08 Beating Perfectionism 16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle 21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers 24:52 Sponsor Break 27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data 33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk 36:24 Risk Rates In Context 37:29 Talking With Providers 40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown 41:38 How Climbers Self Modify 44:03 Misconceptions About Falling 45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes 46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails 50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season 54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break 56:04 Mental Health Benefits 58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training 01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline 01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery 01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained 01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab 01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression 01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All 01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training 01:20:55 Finger Training Focus 01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup 01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters 01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls 01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A 01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips 01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy 01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild 01:37:41 Where to Find Joy 01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic 01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events 01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!