EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience

(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)

(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power

(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)

(00:11:39) – Example board session formats

(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session

(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)

(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules

(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard

(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time

(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching

(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)

(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing

(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)

(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2

(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously

(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs

(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants

(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast

(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing

(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing

(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot

(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things

(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength

(01:00:38) – Wrap up

Episoder(382)

Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Allison Vest. We talked about her sends of ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’ and ‘Rodeo Free Europe’ (both 5.14a) ...

30 Sep 202115min

EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’

EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’

Ben Ditto is a professional climber and photographer from Bishop, California. We talked about Ben’s upbringing and early climbing, competing against Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, falling in love wi...

27 Sep 20212h 49min

EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books

EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books

Alejandra (Alita) Contreras is a half Colombian half Venezualan professional rock climber, coach, and translator. We talked about the economic situation in Venezuela and why she moved to Colombia six ...

20 Sep 20211h 45min

EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder

EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder

Dylan Barks is an elite-level boulder and sport climber, and a dark horse in the climbing scene. He sent ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’, his first V16, just two weeks after this interview. We talked...

13 Sep 20211h 41min

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Maisch. We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson, how to maintain c...

9 Sep 202142min

EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube

EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube

Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, expe...

6 Sep 20212h 2min

EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing

EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing

Boone Speed is a photographer, innovator, and was the first American to climb 5.14b with his route ‘Super Tweak’ in Logan Canyon, UT. We talked about Boone’s upbringing, discovering climbing in Americ...

30 Aug 20212h 31min

Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Nathan Hadley. We talked about his recent 10-day trip to RMNP, in which he sent ‘The Honeymoon is Over’ ...

28 Aug 202119min

Populært innen Fakta

fastlegen
dine-penger-pengeradet
relasjonspodden-med-dora-thorhallsdottir-kjersti-idem
treningspodden
rss-strid-de-norske-borgerkrigene
jakt-og-fiskepodden
foreldreradet
tomprat-med-gunnar-tjomlid
rss-sunn-okonomi
merry-quizmas
sinnsyn
smart-forklart
dopet
hverdagspsyken
gravid-uke-for-uke
podme-bio-3
rss-var-forste-kaffe
sovnlos
rss-kunsten-a-leve
rss-kull