Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance joins the show to look back at Season 1's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing to see what themes and takeaways there are through the lens of Training.

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros like Alex Johnson to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Strap on your helmet, this one is packed with truth bombs!

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Topics:

  • Fast fingers vs strong fingers
  • Injury prevention and rehab
  • How to know when you're approaching junk mileage
  • Common plateaus and how to break through
  • The pyramid scheme

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This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @c4hp.

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Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.

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This show is hosted by Ryan Devlin and produced by Mary Mathis and Ryan Devlin, with additional support from Emily Holland.

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Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Episoder(190)

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Elite climber Stefano Ghisolfi shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - ...

28 Feb 20241h 18min

Emily Harrington: Pro Clinic on Parenthood and Rock Climbing Performance

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22 Feb 202435min

Natalia Grossman: Olympic Training, Climbing World Cup Ups and Downs, and Using Joy as a Performance Hack

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Elite climber Natalia Grossman shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - ...

15 Feb 20241h 7min

Coach Ollie Torr: Training like Alex Honnold, Climbing Endurance Hacks, Beginner Plateaus, and Listener Questions

Coach Ollie Torr: Training like Alex Honnold, Climbing Endurance Hacks, Beginner Plateaus, and Listener Questions

Coach Ollie Torr of Lattice Training joins to discuss: How to adjust training when fighting a cold How much time off we can take before losing gains What energy system to top up right before taking a ...

7 Feb 20241h 8min

Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades

Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades

Elite climber Adam Ondra shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Adam has 18 World Cup Gold medals,, is one of the best boulderers in the world with f...

31 Jan 20241h 26min

Hazel Findlay: Pro Clinic on Rock Climbing Performance Hacks, Mindset, Fear, and Flow

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This conversation has the power to not only change your climbing, but to change your life. In this Pro Clinic, Hazel explores: Fear of falling Expectations Social comparison / competition Fear of fail...

24 Jan 202444min

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