EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.

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EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megos

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a’s

(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger

(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects

(00:14:45) – Bibliographie

(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to

(00:21:08) – The America Tour

(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber

(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a

(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change

(00:45:51) – Leg pump

(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway

(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger

(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017

(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential

(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week

(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape

(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food

(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption

(01:07:51) – Olympics

(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions

(01:12:51) – The board master

(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering

(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Episoder(382)

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Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo sho...

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EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into ...

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EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core

EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core

Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route...

31 Mai 20212h 6min

Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked ab...

27 Mai 202123min

EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief

EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief

Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15...

24 Mai 20212h 28min

EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature

EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature

Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbin...

17 Mai 20212h 24min

Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary ...

13 Mai 202115min

EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck

EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck

Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sp...

10 Mai 20212h 6min

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