EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Ocelot Grips:

ocelotgrips.com/nugget

Use code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.

Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Green Chef:

greenchef.com/nugget50

Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:34) – The Murder Room

(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago

(00:10:02) – Molly’s background

(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s

(00:14:45) – The language of movement

(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master

(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s

(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes

(00:34:36) – The power of climbing

(00:35:49) – Getting her L5

(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting

(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting

(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends

(01:00:54) – Coordination

(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead

(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation

(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter

(01:12:10) – A tide shift

(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries

(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing

(01:24:49) – Finding separation

(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu

(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River

(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters

(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?

(01:52:14) – Splitting the field

(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”

(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Episoder(381)

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

Maya Madere is a 21-year-old comp kid from Austin, TX. We talked about attending school at Stanford and studying computer science, the endurance training program that helped her transition from boulde...

17 Aug 20201h 48min

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

Connor Herson is the kid who free climbed ‘The Nose’ at fifteen years old. What most people don’t know is that he is also an incredible sport climber. We talked about his sport climbing goal at age fo...

10 Aug 20201h 23min

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

Tyson Schoene has been the head coach of the Vertical World Climbing Team in Seattle, WA for nearly 20 years, and has shaped some of the best climbers in the world including Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, a...

3 Aug 20202h 23min

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

Blake Cason is a mindfulness and work/life balance coach, and the founder of Pivot Wellness. We talked about bringing awareness to our relationship with climbing, practicing radical honesty, ways of s...

27 Jul 20201h 46min

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmu...

20 Jul 20201h 50min

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

Ben Herrington is a professional route setter and likely Washington’s most prolific boulderer. We talked about why Ben performs best as a “weekend warrior”, his three go-to training sessions, mistakes...

13 Jul 20201h 41min

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice...

6 Jul 20201h 24min

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recover...

29 Jun 20201h 4min

Populært innen Fakta

fastlegen
dine-penger-pengeradet
relasjonspodden-med-dora-thorhallsdottir-kjersti-idem
treningspodden
foreldreradet
merry-quizmas
dopet
jakt-og-fiskepodden
rss-sunn-okonomi
podme-bio-3
rss-strid-de-norske-borgerkrigene
hverdagspsyken
sovnlos
rss-kull
sinnsyn
gravid-uke-for-uke
tomprat-med-gunnar-tjomlid
rss-var-forste-kaffe
dypdykk
rss-kunsten-a-leve