Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast

Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast

Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers?

That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you.

In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into it’s components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us.

Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong.

Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him.

Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning.

Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/powercompanyclimbing/

Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/cruxconditioning/

Get transcripts, citations, and more at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/breakingbeta

If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

Episoder(28)

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to...

23 Okt 20238min

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in:   Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Clim...

14 Sep 202231min

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews:   Current Approaches on Wa...

7 Sep 202252min

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple...

31 Aug 202250min

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and ...

24 Aug 202252min

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skil...

17 Aug 202256min

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gra...

10 Aug 202252min

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Rela...

3 Aug 202253min

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