Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock ...
27 Jul 202244min
Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers: Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the s...
20 Jul 202238min
Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers: The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport r...
13 Jul 202249min
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing p...
22 Jun 202247min
Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum e...
15 Jun 202225min
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected an...
15 Jun 202247min
Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches. *Additional studies/resour...
8 Jun 202248min
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson. He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more...
1 Jun 202251min
