Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing

Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing

For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum episode we look at a little more of the complete story by examining the paper:

Female excellence in rock climbing likely has an evolutionary origin Published by Collin Carrol in Current Research in Physiology, 2021

Thanks to Irene Di Lauro for sending this paper in!

Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all of your friends who are confused and overwhelmed by the amount of jumbled and conflicting training info out there, that you have the perfect podcast for them.

Better Call Paul | Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

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Episoder(28)

Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?

Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1.  They break down the specifics — from finger strength to injury prevention, flexibility to nutrition — that they’ll be incorpora...

25 Mai 202251min

Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Pro...

9 Feb 202235min

Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?

Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular supplements in sports nutrition: International Society of Sports Nutrition Positio...

2 Feb 202249min

Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Bo...

26 Jan 202240min

Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there’s really a best way to train on a hangboard: Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial a...

19 Jan 202232min

Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers: Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments authored b...

12 Jan 202247min

How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study: Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the S...

5 Jan 202235min

Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?

Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that might finally reveal why there are so many former gymnasts who can crush: Flexibility Assessment and the Role of Flexibility as a Determinant of Per...

29 Des 202137min

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