EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.

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  • Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salas

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries

(00:05:26) – Vanlife

(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience

(00:15:35) – An invisible disability

(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”

(00:27:55) – Faces

(00:30:45) – Losing his vision

(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days

(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing

(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms

(00:48:36) – Assistive technology

(00:54:34) – How he climbs

(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing

(01:10:59) – Sight guides

(01:22:34) – Footholds

(01:25:29) – Stamina training

(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics

(01:33:14) – Getting inspired

(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em

(01:37:32) – Assessing landings

(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching

(01:45:04) – Toothpaste

(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes

(01:51:42) – Asking for help

(01:57:54) – April

(02:05:47) – Building out a van

(02:10:09) – Vegas

(02:12:56) – Nature is healing

(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear

(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk

(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing

(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions

(02:39:39) – Blind visualization

(02:46:48) – Building a mental map

(02:50:11) – Changemaker

(02:54:40) – Faith

(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning

(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy

(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”

Episoder(382)

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addicti...

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EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, se...

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EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with M...

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EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

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EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux...

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EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can...

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EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

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