​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing

(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams

(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead

(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)

(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers

(00:30:08) – The Needles

(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil

(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins

(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time

(00:49:59) – The Winnebago

(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds

(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch

(01:05:11) – City of Rocks

(01:10:24) – Drawing the line

(01:16:12) – Old school bolting

(01:24:40) – Riggins

(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing

(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing

(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym

(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days

(01:43:13) – Listen to your body

(01:46:17) – Respect your body

(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Episoder(381)

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing lo...

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EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens...

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Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician a...

21 Mai 20253h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version o...

12 Mai 20252h 8min

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on A...

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EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and web...

28 Apr 20251h 21min

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project...

21 Apr 20252h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

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