EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

Use code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Become a Patron:

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalie

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:03) – Keith’s background

(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background

(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study

(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”

(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective

(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies

(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?

(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?

(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness

(00:57:00) – Recommendations

(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale

(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics

(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?

(01:15:42) – Summary

(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies

(01:19:25) – Wrap up

Episoder(385)

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

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EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

Mikey Schaefer is a photographer, filmmaker, and an all-around climber whose accomplishments range from dangerous first ascents in the mountains to 5.13+ big walls, 5.14 sport climbs, and V10 boulders...

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EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

Drew Ruana is a 20-year-old boulderer, sport climber, and competition climber who is quickly becoming one of the best rock climbers in the world. We talked about climbing ‘Sleepwalker’ (his first V16)...

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EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love

EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love

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EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers

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Katie Lambert is an elite rock climber in just about every discipline of the sport. She is also a contributing author for Climbing Magazine, owns a business, and has a master’s in nutrition. We talked...

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EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current traini...

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EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

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EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

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