Alpinist3 Aug 2025

Mary Catherine Eden: The Importance of Being Bored

While growing up in Kentucky, Mary Eden was often bored. But it was that boredom, she recalls, that helped her find meaningful interests as she explored her world. It led her to art and to adventure. She didn't discover rock climbing until she moved to Moab in her early twenties. Even then, she says she wasn't a naturally-gifted climber. But, she was determined to learn, and did whatever she needed to do to find gear, mentorship and belayers. She always had the drive, and once she learned how to properly train, Eden progressed, fairly quickly, to being one of the best crack climbers in the world. Her climbing accomplishments include Necronomicon (5.14a) and Black Mamba (5.14b).

Today, Eden is a professional climber and artist. She shared the story of her life and journey into climbing in Alpinist 89, and she's featured on the cover of that issue.

In this conversation, Mary talks about her growth as a climber and the beauty she finds in the holds and heights of Western landscapes, especially around her home in Moab. She reflects on what she learns about herself through climbing, especially during moments of self doubt and explains why she encourages her friends to fail as often as possible.

This episode is brought to you with support from Rab Equipment.

Host: Abbey Collins

Producer & Engineer: Mike Horn

Guest: Mary Catherine Eden

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