Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:16:59.

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Tyler’s Original Episode:

EP 79: Tyler Nelson

Episoder(382)

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

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EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

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Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

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17 Okt 202432min

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

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EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her ...

7 Okt 20242h 3min

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. ...

30 Sep 20241h 41min

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, w...

23 Sep 20241h 18min

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

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Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

19 Sep 202443min

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