EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking

EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking

Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robbie-phillips

Nuggets:

0:07:14 – The Suzuki photo shoot, broken car, and tea without milk

0:10:00 – Onsighting the podcast

0:10:34 – Robbie’s recent trip to St. Kilda

0:16:15 – Rock types and the style of climbing in the Western Isles of Scotland

0:21:08 – Climbing a sea cliff in Dùn

0:26:27 – Robbie’s path from competition climbing to adventure climbing

0:35:12 – Climbing Bellevista 13d/14a (8b/+) in the Dolomites

0:38:56 – Imposter syndrome, and not being a natural at bold adventure climbing

0:40:48 – Being good at suffering

0:42:26 – Following the psych

0:45:10 – Patron question from Christoph: How does Robbie train for hard trad climbing specifically?

0:47:47 – What We Do in the Shadows E10 (14b/8c)

0:50:19 – The E grading system, and why Robbie isn’t a big fan of that system

0:55:20 – Indian Creek, and Robbie’s first day “flailing around” in Yosemite

0:57:06 – Patron question from Christoph: What does Robbie do to steel his mind for scary leads?

1:00:08 – Robbie’s almost life-altering accident when he started trad climbing, and the lesson he learned

1:03:44 – Breakdown of What We Do in the Shadows

1:11:06 – The process of projecting the route, his dad passing away, and the darkest period of his life

1:18:37 – How Robbie’s mom is doing now

1:20:32 – Robbie’s dad

1:26:32 – A few things Robbie learned from projecting with Dave MacLeod

1:33:46 – Why Robbie prefers working projects via top rope solo, and why he loves the Taz LOV3

1:49:02 – Balancing performance with having fun

1:53:52 – The Long Hope, and fulmars

2:02:06 – Robbie’s filmmaking, and capturing memories

2:14:18 – How Robbie makes a living

2:16:10 – I respect all the other podcasters!

2:17:02 – Why the new Long Hope film was so fun to work on, and entering it in the Kendal Mountain Festival

2:22:02 – Patron question from GeneO: Why does Robbie consider himself a professional climber but not a professional athlete?

2:24:59 – Upcoming climbing goals

2:28:02 – Does Robbie want to try Lexicon?

2:30:34 – Wrap up

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Episoder(393)

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Jul 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Jun 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Jun 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Mai 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Mai 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Apr 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Apr 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Apr 1h 46min

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