Dan John | Now What?

Dan John | Now What?

Last summer I started a list titled "Non Climbing (realistic) Dream Guests". I only got as far as one name: Dan John. I was planning to be in Salt Lake for the OR Trade Show, so I emailed Dan on the off chance that he'd do an in person conversation. To my surprise he emailed back almost immediately, scheduled a call for the next day, and invited me to his house to workout and record the conversation.

If you've taken even a cursory look into the field of Strength and Conditioning, you've seen the name Dan John repeatedly. He's often quoted by other coaches, including all of us here at Power Company Climbing, and his pragmatic approach to training is one that has resonated with me since I read his book, Easy Strength, co written with kettlebell guru Pavel Tsatsouline.

I went to his house to discuss his newest book, "Now What?", which asks and answers the important questions that coaches and athletes often forget to ask. After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What? This book follows two other excellent books from Dan called "Intervention" and "Can You Go?", both of which should be required reading for coaches.

The wisdom that Dan shares concerning coaching and dealing with athletes is impossible to overvalue. While he's worked with Olympic and Professional athletes, he still makes time for an open workout in his simple garage gym at 9:30 every morning, where he both dispenses knowledge and learns from whoever shows up that day. After a workout in Dan's gym, this style of what Dan calls "intentional community" is exactly how I plan to build my own home gym.

You can find Dan at www.danjohn.net

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Episoder(404)

You're Wrong About The Limits of Climbing

You're Wrong About The Limits of Climbing

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19 Aug 12min

BOARD MEETINGS | Climbing Performance Bottlenecks: Not Enough Time Outside

BOARD MEETINGS | Climbing Performance Bottlenecks: Not Enough Time Outside

In Part 1 of this series exploring the most common performance bottlenecks in climbing, Kris and Nate sit down to discuss how not spending enough time outside can have a massive impact on hard you cli...

17 Aug 56min

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but that's not reality. Instead, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrat...

2 Jun 57min

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

Drills aren't the only way to improve your climbing movement skill and technique. In fact, there's a much simpler way. This is Part 4 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for clim...

12 Mai 17min

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but like it or not, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrate and underra...

5 Mai 1h 2min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 3 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Do More session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

21 Apr 16min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 2 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Go Hard session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

24 Mar 15min

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Like it or not, grades are a part of climbing, and I've recently been exploring how to have a good relationship with them. In that exploration, I've decided on a range that I believe any given grade r...

10 Mar 1h 31min

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