EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences

EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences

Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins

Nuggets:

0:05:22 – Todd’s pancake beta

0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church

0:10:40 – Cannabis

0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking

0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing

0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt

0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral,

0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years

0:33:18 – Chris Sharma’s psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid

0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present

0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago

0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks

0:48:28 – More about being present

0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days

0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents

0:59:24 – My (Steven’s) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd’s thoughts on mental tenacity

1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd’s near-death experience

1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion

1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion

1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism

1:21:00 – Aliens

1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s

1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George

1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter

1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard

1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing

Episoder(382)

EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions

EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions

This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his cur...

1 Mar 20211h 50min

EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books. We talked about improving fro...

22 Feb 20211h 41min

BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats

BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats

In this bonus episode, I chat with Blake Cason about ClimbWell, and upcoming retreats for Spring 2021. Blake explains what ClimbWell is all about, who the retreats are for, what to expect from this 4-...

18 Feb 202124min

Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Blake Cason. We talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in...

18 Feb 202110min

EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change

EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change

Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tal...

15 Feb 20211h 39min

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start, a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his ...

8 Feb 20211h 22min

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow i...

4 Feb 202114min

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week trai...

1 Feb 20211h 24min

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