EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences

EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences

Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins

Nuggets:

0:05:22 – Todd’s pancake beta

0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church

0:10:40 – Cannabis

0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking

0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing

0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt

0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral,

0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years

0:33:18 – Chris Sharma’s psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid

0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present

0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago

0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks

0:48:28 – More about being present

0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days

0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents

0:59:24 – My (Steven’s) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd’s thoughts on mental tenacity

1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd’s near-death experience

1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion

1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion

1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism

1:21:00 – Aliens

1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s

1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George

1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter

1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard

1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing

Episoder(382)

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Apr 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent re...

7 Apr 20251h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

1 Apr 202529min

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

24 Mar 20252h 18min

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing...

17 Mar 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Mar 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Mar 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Feb 20252h

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