Written in Stone: Climbing History

Kris chats with French legend David Chambre, the author of one of the best and most beautiful reference books out there for '90s climbing history, The 9th Grade. David’s previous book, co-written with Jibé Tribout, The 8th Grade, is a treasure trove of French climbing history of the late 1970s and early to mid 1980s. They discuss the influence of Patrick Edlinger on both French and world climbing history.  Discussed in the episode: The difference between the two Patricks. The rivalry between the Parisians and Edlinger. Edlinger’s influence on climbing culture. The effect of fame on Edlinger. Tribout’s ability to provoke. French climbing history. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. Get David's Book The 9th Grade ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab.  This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

11 Des 20241h 2min

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the '80s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it.  Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a.  Jibé Tribout is a french and world climbing legend who, through the '80s and '90s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c. They discuss: Pushing grades in the '80s. The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit. The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger. The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the '80s. The benefits of friendly competition at the crag. The first actual comps. Tribout playing the villain. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

9 Des 20241h 7min

There is no icon of 1980's climbing with the starpower of Patrick Edlinger. Known as Le Blonde, it's estimated that by the mid 1990's, Edlinger was responsible for inspiring 80% of France's climbers to join the sport. Not only was he one of the first to embrace sport climbing, he defined the style and movement of the era. But the life of the rock star is often one of tragedy. The higher the rise, the further the fall. How would Edlinger deal with being at the top of the mountain? Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab.  This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

2 Des 202435min

As the end of the 1970’s neared, climbers, more and more, the world over, were wondering the same thing. “How hard can we climb? In this setup episode we look at the factors that coalesced right there at the end of the 70's and beginning of the 80's to help pave the way for what we now call sport climbing.  New equipment, new tactics, and most important, ushered in by a German giant named Kurt Albert, were new rules.  Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab.  This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

25 Nov 202422min

Climbing, in the 1990s, as you’ve already heard, was all punk rock and new wave, rising standards and superstar climbers pushing each other forward through friendly – and not so friendly – rivalries. And it was huge. But all of that bravado started somewhere. It wasn’t some Big Bang event. Instead, January 1st, 1990 was a product of the previous decade. A continuation of the countercultural need to rail against the conservatism, materialism and, well, traditionalism of the cultural norm. What had been counterculture in the '60s and '70s had become, in fact, climbing culture, and there was a new class of climbers unwilling to be subservient to what came before. They wanted something entirely new. Entirely theirs. Something that bucked against the tired old ways their fathers and mothers and grandparents had climbed.   They were louder. They were stronger. They were better. By miles. And they knew it. Season 2, The 1980s, coming soon.

18 Nov 20243min

Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents we missed in Season 1. He showed up with a great list of climbers including Leo Houlding, Klem Loskot and more. I do my best to defend my choices, but Remus makes some great points. Become a Patron and get this full episode for free at: https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub Links to things we discuss: Steve McClure and Mutation: https://climbing-history.org/climb/392/mutation Klem Loskot profile and videos: https://climbing-history.org/climber/941/klem-loskot Beat Kammerlander free soloing Mordillo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10&t=2s Alain Robert's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alainrobertofficial The Alpine Trilogy: https://climbing-history.org/list/11/the-alpine-trilogy Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 1: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-1 Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 2: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-2

19 Aug 202434min

Matt Samet is a legend of the climbing magazine world, having worked for Climbing, Rock & Ice and Alpinist as an editor, writer and general voice of credibility. Not everyone in the industry is core to the climbing lifestyle, but Matt definitely is. He loves this. In this episode we discuss the role of the magazines then and now, the demise of print, my and others criticism of the magazines and the short comings of the media, even in it's heyday. Become a Patron and get this full episode for free at https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub

5 Aug 202424min

Sometimes you need time away to realize what you were in the midst of.  In this episode Kris reflects on the season, where the true cultural shifts in climbing came, and the lessons that climbers can take away from examining climbing history this way. Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

11 Jun 202431min