The Nugget Climbing Podcast

I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you’ve ever done?” Firstly, I don’t have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy!*This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020.Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack’ in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing. Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts-repostNuggets:0:09:16 – The evolution of dirtbagging, early road life, Smith as a safe zone, “there were no routes”0:14:07 – Eating every other day0:26:47 – Abstainers vs moderators0:31:02 – Bill Ramsey, UO, and climbing “every variation imaginable” at the Columns0:36:03 – Connecting with the people you need0:38:40 – Inferiority complex and pushing to improve0:40:04 – A paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to climbing faces0:46:11 – Stumbling upon sport climbing and going from being a decent climber to a really good climber0:48:29 – Redpoint tactics, ethics, and borrowing from the Europeans0:52:39 – ‘Corner No. 1’, how ‘Chain Reaction’ got its name, and reaching the world standard at Smith Rock0:54:28 – 11b to 13d in six years, ‘Punks in the Gym’, and pushing world standards0:55:44 – Meeting Heinz Zak and Wolfgang’s t-shirt0:58:52 – Pioneering Smith Rock film by Hydro Flask, and going back to the summer of ’85, and ‘East Face Crack’ 5.13d1:04:01 – Other hard crack climbs and ‘Double Stain’1:05:25 – 7 days prepping ‘Sunshine Wall’ and the story of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’1:11:34 – Climbing every day, injuries, and killing the goose that laid the golden eggs1:22:15 – Hip surgery and meeting Adam Ondra1:31:00 – Adam’s post about meeting Alan, and Adam’s onsight of ‘Just Do It’ 5.14c1:36:52 – Adam’s photo book (Alan-“What the hell? How did I make the cut?”)1:38:17 – The Awl project, “I do not want to FAIL!”1:40:44 – Bolting futuristic projects, thinking anything was possible, and bolting ‘Just Do It’ for a TV show in 19891:48:23 – “I used to visualize before that was what you were supposed to do”1:52:00 – “Fucking hard green route”1:54:15 – Alan’s finger strength, hanging from one hand for (almost) a minute, and gym vs. outdoor climbing2:01:18 – The updated Smith Rock guidebook2:02:26 – Alan’s box of tights2:05:20 – The 100 book list and projecting difficult books2:10:27 – Working on the guidebook and connecting with the people2:15:19 – The (lack of) ways to connect with Alan2:17:01 – A slice of contribution in a little tiny sport2:19:53 – “He’s cheating”, and Alan’s funny recurring dream

19 Des 20222h 26min

Alita Contreras is back on the podcast! We talked about her Fall project in the Red River Gorge, the lessons that routes can teach us, and a film project that she is currently working on with her friend Elisa Varlotta called Guerreras. The film will feature Colombian women and the beautiful local climbing in Colombia.Support the Guerreras GoFundMe!http://gofund.me/47f5487dFollow on Instagram!@guerreras.film@alitaclimbing@elisa_varlotta

16 Des 202244min

Merch is here! I am SO excited about how the "hello friends" series turned out. Check out the Nugget shop for t-shirts, hoodies, and hats. All Patrons get free shipping!Buy Merch!thenuggetclimbing.com/shopBecome a Patron and get free shipping!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

15 Des 20225min

Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more.Check out So Cards!socards.orgUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alayna-joyNuggets:0:06:36 – Julio0:09:27 – Places that feel like home0:16:32 – Feeling like I already know Alayna from watching her channel, and parasocial relationships0:19:37 – Sharing her story to make others feel less alone0:21:39 – Starting her YouTube channel in high school, her first three videos, and hitting 800 subscribers0:27:30 – Working as a server during university, and getting her first YouTube brand deal0:31:38 – The phenomenon of being an introvert and a content creator0:34:39 – Bisexuality, and the first time Alayna came out0:37:54 – Being in a serious relationship with a man, and feeling disconnected from her queerness0:42:54 – Coming out to her partner as gay, and talking herself out of it0:46:25 – The constant little voice in her head convincing her she was happy0:48:08 – “The big oopsie”0:51:26 – Being afraid that she was playing into bisexual stereotypes by coming out as gay0:54:41 – Compulsory heterosexuality (comp het), and why it took Alayna so long to realize she was gay0:58:08 – Why Alayna thought she was demiromantic for most of her adult life1:00:19 – Seeing the world through new eyes1:05:16 – “I’m in therapy, and I’M TIRED!”1:06:05 – Alayna pays me a very nice compliment, and I talk about drawing people in and hoping they learn something that goes beyond rock climbing1:10:43 – I come out as not a lesbian, and Alayna asks everyone listening to ask themselves a question1:12:54 – “Climbing is gay.”1:18:36 – How climbing became an anchor for Alayna1:21:17 – Working on her relationship with climbing1:23:32 – Making quick progress as climbers early on, why our progress slows over time, and the magic of climbing1:32:01 – The stories our brains tell us1:34:36 – So Cards! (socards.org, use code NUGGET for 20% off)1:36:29 – So Cards question 1: “If you never had to worry about money, what’s one goal that you would dedicate yourself to?”1:40:00 – So Cards question 2: “When you were a kid, what scared you about growing up?”1:46:05 – So Cards question 3: “What do you think people tend to take for granted in their relationships?”1:53:14 – You’re not alone, and living your life as your most authentic self1:56:00 – Patron question from Wren: How was your experience finding a queer community within the larger climbing community, and do you have any tips for queer climbers finding these spaces?2:00:26 – Where to find Alayna on the internet

12 Des 20222h 5min

Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/donateCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkinsNuggets:0:05:22 – Todd’s pancake beta0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church0:10:40 – Cannabis0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral,0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years0:33:18 – Chris Sharma’s psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks0:48:28 – More about being present0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents0:59:24 – My (Steven’s) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd’s thoughts on mental tenacity1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd’s near-death experience1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism1:21:00 – Aliens1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing

5 Des 20221h 51min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:25:59.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAmity’s Original Episode:EP 104: Amity Warme

28 Nov 202220min

Katie Lamb is one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her early climbing and falling in love with bouldering, climbing her first V14 and what led to her breakthrough in the last two years, projecting tips, superpowers, lifting weights, balancing training with outdoor climbing, what it will take for her to reach the next level, and working in climate data science.Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambNuggets:0:05:35 – Getting over being sick, and covid0:09:40 – Sewing0:14:51 – Katie’s lifted Toyota Prius0:18:17 – Her background in sport climbing, falling in love with bouldering, and why she quit competing0:24:05 – Katie’s progression during college from V10 to V140:25:12 – Katie’s climbing philosophy0:28:12 – External pressure vs. internal motivation, and Katie’s experience on Jade V14 (8B+)0:31:11 – The great paradox of performance climbing0:31:59 – Katie’s first V13 (8B), Nothin But Sunshine0:34:22 – Her summer of 2019, and adventure bouldering0:42:37 – Katie’s accomplishments in the past two years, and what she attributes her breakthrough to0:46:01 – Focused sessions, and diving into the nitty gritty0:47:35 – Getting better, getting stronger, and having more time0:50:23 – The balance of indoor training and outdoor climbing0:51:19 – Katie’s superpowers, and growing an inch in her 20s0:54:57 – The mechanics of crimping0:58:58 – Patron question from Justin: How much time does Katie spend trying things that are in her style vs. outside of her style?1:01:32 – What drives Katie to pick specific projects1:02:10 – Injuring her finger in June of 2022, and rehabbing in Rocklands1:08:57 – Sending Book Club V14 (8B+) less than two months after her finger injury1:13:49 – Balancing projecting with quick ticks1:16:41 – Why making excuses can be helpful1:21:08 – Playing the long game with projecting, and going easy on herself1:22:29 – How Katie is training for the next level1:24:27 – Lifting weights1:30:20 – The Never Ready1:31:21 – What will it take for Katie to climb V15?1:34:13 – Patron question from Jacob: When are we going to see a female ascent of V16?1:37:22 – Balancing professional climbing with working in climate science, and how Katie created flexibility in her job1:44:53 – Working in climate data science1:47:25 – What Katie wishes more people knew about climate1:48:40 – What we can do on an individual level to affect the climate (Katie’s answer might surprise you!)1:50:40 – Where our electricity comes from, and the fossil fuel industry1:53:27 – How climate change is putting our electrical grid at risk1:54:51 – Hopeful things happening in climate1:56:43 – How climbers can be leaders in the climate movement1:58:28 – Wrap up

21 Nov 20222h 2min

Marisa Michael is a registered dietitian nutritionist with 20 years of experience who specializes in eating disorders in athletes and climbers. We talked about the characteristics of eating disorders, the line between eating for performance and disordered eating, why losing weight won’t make you climb harder, recommendations for climbers and youth athletes, intuitive eating, Marisa’s sweet tooth, and much more.Eating Disorders Helpline:nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helplineListen to more top nutrition episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/marisa-michaelNuggets:0:05:03 – What Marisa had for breakfast0:07:04 – Overview of the conversation to come0:08:37 – The difference between a registered dietitian and a nutritionist0:11:03 – Working with athletes and disordered eating in her practice0:12:32 – Why Marisa chose to specialize in working with athletes who struggle with disordered eating0:15:13 – What Marisa hopes to accomplish in this episode0:17:03 – A bit about my (Steven’s) experience with disordered eating and the biggest question I have for Marisa0:18:44 – What distinguishes an eating disorder or disordered eating?0:23:33 – Discipline and eating for performance vs. disordered eating… Where is the line?0:30:13 – Personifying your eating disorder0:31:57 – How my mindset shifted from self-care to anxiety after losing weight0:35:27 – Discipline doesn’t have to mean ignoring your body cues0:36:25 – What the data says about weight and climbing performance, and why we should all calm down about weight0:38:02 – One thing that might have prevented my eating disorder if I had known them sooner0:39:38 – BMI and finger injuries, and disordered eating in elite climbers0:41:38 – Is weight cycling ever appropriate?0:45:48 – Another thing I wish I had known sooner, and breaking training PRs this summer0:49:03 – Food is fuel, and it’s also more than fuel0:49:58 – “It depends”0:52:03 – Intuitive Eating as a framework0:54:11 – The 10 principles of Intuitive Eating0:56:23 – How to navigate our modern food environment with Intuitive Eating (so you don’t eat Oreos for breakfast)1:01:41 – Marisa’s sweet tooth and she navigates it1:04:52 – Is it ok to celebrate with food after a send?1:06:35 – Marisa’s thoughts on “moderators” and “abstainers”, and the plate of cookies example1:11:57 – How restricting leads to bingeing1:17:04 – Marisa’s general eating recommendations, and recommended macros for climbers1:20:17 – Food timing1:22:03 – Intermittent fasting: yay or nay?1:23:45 – Patron question from Karl: How do you navigate intuitive eating if you don’t get hungry?1:25:15 – How to calculate your daily energy needs1:27:19 – Patron question from Shawn: How do we get enough protein in a healthy way?1:29:10 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating meat1:31:47 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating fat1:32:47 – Patron question from Vicente: Prefered supplements?1:36:47 – Patron question from Jaime: Any tips on how to lose body fat for people who are stuck?1:38:05 – Marisa’s thoughts on the ketogenic diet1:41:57 – Marisa’s thoughts on veganism and vegetarianism1:44:38 – Patron question from Cody: What is a good starting point for someone who is trying to heal an unhealthy relationship with food?1:47:22 – Patron question from Wren: How can all climbers contribute to a healthy environment surrounding food/body image?1:51:13 – How to respond to jokes about food restriction1:53:39 – Are there any foods we should avoid?1:55:43 – Marisa’s master’s thesis, studying eating patterns in youth climbers, and recommendations for parents and coaches2:00:58 – Favorite pre-climbing snack2:02:08 – How important is protein before or during climbing/training?2:03:31 – Studying amenorrhea in female IFSC athletes2:07:47 – “Eat enough.”2:08:53 – Wrap up

15 Nov 20222h 14min