EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnutt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:08:20) – Anna’s childhood room

(00:10:00) – Plans for Austria

(00:11:21) – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast

(00:12:50) – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus

(00:14:35) – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?)

(00:17:39) – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget

(00:19:41) – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche

(00:24:40) – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side

(00:28:57) – Balancing intensity and comedy

(00:30:10) – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still

(00:33:30) – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK

(00:35:53) – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall

(00:39:29) – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E9

(00:41:33) – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab

(00:45:38) – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters

(00:50:14) – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E9

(00:55:32) – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests

(01:01:01) – Some context about the 9c test

(01:02:53) – Toe training!

(01:07:11) – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility

(01:09:15) – Leaning into our superpowers

(01:14:53) – Anna’s dreamboard, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style

(01:19:30) – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house

(01:24:09) – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them

(01:28:45) – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits

(01:31:23) – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged

(01:38:04) – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more)

(01:41:20) – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on

(01:43:19) – Shoulder exercises for slab

(01:44:12) – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs?

(01:46:59) – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d)

(01:52:54) – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like?

(01:58:52) – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from?

(02:02:55) – Anna’s sensitivity

(02:04:14) – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet

(02:09:31) – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page

(02:16:14) – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym

(02:21:18) – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym?

(02:23:31) – Anna’s thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion

(02:28:27) – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting

(02:31:32) – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted and don’t assume

(02:35:45) – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience

(02:39:17) – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes

(02:41:34) – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English

(02:42:32) – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos

(02:47:07) – Giving others permission

(02:49:28) – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing

(02:51:01) – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube channel

(02:52:59) – Anna’s sources of income

(02:54:54) – Being a hand model for a Sofie Tucker music video

(02:56:41) – The difference between YouTube and podcasts

(03:00:35) – Final question from Ethan: Does Anna have specific goals that are lifetime achievement goals?

(03:06:43) – Empathy

(03:09:20) – Wrap up

Avsnitt(379)

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician and his own health journey, as well as the origins of allopathic medicine, seed oils and the hydroelectric dam analogy, what’s wrong with rodent studies and nutrition research, how to eat for optimal energy, leanness and performance, longevity in sports, setting 90 years of goals, the politicization of health, finding self-love, and much more. You can learn more about Justin at justinnault.com/stevenMaui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenNADS (Men's Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% off NADSHeadspace (Meditation App)Try it for Free for 14 DaysSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:04) – Justin’s life as a professional musician(00:08:10) – The costume(00:13:34) – Escapism(00:17:58) – Rocketman(00:20:18) – Collecting data from childhood(00:24:46) – Masochistic fitness(00:28:31) – Justin’s niece(00:33:52) – The origins of allopathic medicine(00:35:23) – The limitations of nutrition science(00:37:20) – Seed oils(00:41:44) – The hydroelectric dam analogy(00:46:38) – PUFAs, Omega-6s, & Omega-3s(00:48:31) – Hyperphysiological doses, & fat loss(00:54:37) – A cheap way to check your metabolic rate(00:56:17) – What happened to Primal Kitchen(01:01:24) – Capitalism is demand-driven(01:05:28) – Whose funnel am I in?(01:08:44) – Justin’s staple foods(01:10:59) – Cholesterol & thyroid health(01:19:21) – Carbs & saturated fat(01:24:20) – Calories, paleo, & metabolic rate(01:30:01) – Food is data(01:33:17) – Energy flux(01:38:06) – No more sugar cravings(01:41:17) – Architect of freedom(01:45:45) – Thyroid, carb sources, & dairy(01:49:11) – Fiber & blood glucose(01:50:16) – Sugar(01:57:07) – Fructose & fruit juice(01:59:24) – Rodent studies & nutrition research(02:04:41) – The illusion of authority(02:10:07) – The politicization of health(02:13:56) – Covid(02:21:56) – A journey of self-love(02:33:44) – Psychadelics & non-duality(02:37:46) – Is it working(02:45:07) – Top 5 daily prometabolic habits(02:48:49) – Equatorial living(02:51:33) – Leanness & performance(03:00:54) – Longevity in sports(03:03:16) – Justin’s athletic life(03:05:32) – 90 years of goals(03:08:05) – Where to find Justin

21 Maj 3h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version of yourself, his ideal training week, recovery tips, cardio, his optimistic view of climbing media, his goal to be intentional in all things, projecting tactics, hard projects in WA and Chile, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetMad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/facundo-langbehnNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – Breakfast & coffee(00:03:58) – Expression & language(00:06:39) – Climbing background(00:11:28) – Work(00:16:34) – Moving to Seattle(00:19:02) – Growing up in Chile(00:24:38) – Why(00:45:16) – The mental battle(00:51:12) – Exposure to hard boulders(00:55:00) – Hard projects in WA & Chile(00:57:48) – Scarcity & value(01:02:10) – Childhood(01:08:00) – Fast-paced society(01:10:28) – The character behind climbers(01:12:13) – Better storytelling(01:20:21) – Intentional(01:24:53) – My approach to improving(01:29:24) – Facundo’s approach to improving(01:35:35) – Projecting tactics(01:37:56) – Long careers(01:40:38) – Always peaking(01:44:05) – Facu’s ideal training week(01:51:15) – Recovery & cardio(01:59:02) – Best version all around(02:00:50) – Intentional continued(02:05:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

12 Maj 2h 8min

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

9 Maj 38min

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he’s lived in, the best budget options he’s found, essentials for $100 or less, heating systems, bathroom options, cooking tips, and much more.GSI Outdoors:Camp StovesGoSun:Solar CoolersOutdoorsy:Rent a Van or RV for your next adventure!Ignik:Sustainable Campfire Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bob-wellsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:39) – Bob’s background (00:04:36) – Life before the road(00:05:38) – Bob’s shed(00:09:39) – Big city vanlife  (00:15:38) – Full time vanlife(00:17:39) – First van(00:21:37) – Emergency bucket  (00:23:41) – City-specific van tips (00:29:40) – Progression of vehicles  (00:34:40) – Freedom on the road(00:38:40) – Most impressive setup(00:40:41) – Clever and unique setup(00:44:52) – Bang for your buck(00:47:57) – Avoiding burnout (00:51:52) – Dogs(00:55:56) – Bob’s future(00:58:57) – Practical advice for road life  (01:05:53) – $100 or less essentials (01:07:54) – Heating systems (01:10:55) – Van or truck tent canopy (01:15:45) – Longest trip in one week(01:17:43) – Beauty of Moab (01:19:43) – Where to find Bob

28 Apr 1h 21min

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallumNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)(00:19:10) – Board tactics(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?(00:26:14) – Getting outside(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up(00:34:07) – A typical week(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics(00:40:42) – 2 months on(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses(00:57:19) – The Spray layout(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes(01:11:36) – Working & setting(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside(01:31:57) – New board companies(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature(01:38:59) – Dream lines(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

21 Apr 2h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and  Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.beThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugTindeq 👉 tindeq.com  (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order)The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessensNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – The North Pole(00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood(00:22:38) – Early climbing(00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs(00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain(00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives(00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance(00:57:24) – A healing sabatical(01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued(01:10:20) – Meditation(01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method(01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain(01:27:39) – Happiness within(01:33:55) – Meditation continued(01:38:45) – Love(01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences(01:48:52) – Long covid(01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training(02:02:53) – Visualization(02:09:24) – Low-load training(02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control(02:12:41) – Recovery tips(02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation(02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing(02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude(02:30:31) – Closing questions

15 Apr 2h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith’s background(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

7 Apr 1h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodinNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)(00:20:07) – High-Low training(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity(The following topics are available for Patrons only)(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up(00:44:35) – Building your own board(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

1 Apr 29min

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