EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-stroh

Nuggets:

0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals

0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve

0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover

0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics

0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks

0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned

0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports

0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing

0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships

0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories

0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon

0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe

0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock

1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering

1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience

1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly

1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style

1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap

1:37:34 – The Freerider story

1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks

1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury

1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France

1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder

1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing

2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms

2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

Avsnitt(382)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from ...

11 Nov 202121min

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite r...

8 Nov 20211h 48min

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to impro...

1 Nov 20212h 32min

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how ...

28 Okt 202122min

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories t...

25 Okt 20212h 35min

EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal

EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal

Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery, the decision to amput...

18 Okt 20212h 43min

EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent

EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent

Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock clim...

11 Okt 20212h 16min

EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos

EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos

In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength whil...

4 Okt 20211h 3min

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