EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-stroh

Nuggets:

0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals

0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve

0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover

0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics

0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks

0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned

0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports

0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing

0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships

0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories

0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon

0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe

0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock

1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering

1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience

1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly

1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style

1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap

1:37:34 – The Freerider story

1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks

1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury

1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France

1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder

1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing

2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms

2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

Avsnitt(382)

EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to cre...

23 Aug 20211h 45min

EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting

EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting

Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting ch...

16 Aug 20212h 23min

Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of send...

12 Aug 202126min

EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’

EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’

Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ...

9 Aug 20211h 31min

EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet

EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet

Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, h...

2 Aug 20211h 35min

Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legend...

29 Juli 202132min

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be ...

26 Juli 20212h 1min

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his p...

19 Juli 20211h 44min

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