EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing

EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytis

Nuggets:

0:05:26 – Exhales and accents

0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco

0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume

0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font

0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain

0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining

0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno

0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time

0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades

0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty

0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever

0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful

0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades

0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project

1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move

1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos

1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing

1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger

1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+

1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common

1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now

1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega

1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip

1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed

1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list

1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life

1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability

1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?

1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare

1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber

1:57:46 – Wobblers

2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven

2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness

2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants

2:11:21 – V14 goals

2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

Avsnitt(385)

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux...

11 Nov 20242h 14min

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can...

4 Nov 202435min

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue p...

28 Okt 20241h 22min

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign...

23 Okt 20242h 56min

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition,...

21 Okt 20241h 38min

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs,...

17 Okt 202432min

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the em...

14 Okt 20241h 16min

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her ...

7 Okt 20242h 3min

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