EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal

EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut Video

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecova

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing

(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time

(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16

(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all

(00:18:08) – A natural talent

(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering

(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends

(00:30:04) – Sharing successes

(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15

(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting

(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’

(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity

(00:58:22) – Working with her coach

(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength

(01:08:09) – How her training has changed

(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment

(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall

(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’

(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects

(01:35:18) – Self-belief

(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory

(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum

(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos

(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food

(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement

(01:48:51) – Best decision

(01:53:17) – Bug snacks

(01:56:00) – Happiest moment

(01:58:58) – Silver linings

(02:03:11) – Proudest of

(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type

(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes

(02:11:27) – Wrap up

Avsnitt(385)

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Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)

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EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

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Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his p...

19 Juli 20211h 44min

EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs

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Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, t...

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This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some ...

8 Juli 202112min

A Call from Ethan

A Call from Ethan

Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. ⁠

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EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podca...

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EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing T...

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