EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

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AG1:

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Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

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PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

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The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

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Tindeq:

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast

(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’

(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency

(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle

(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety

(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume

(00:41:08) – Tree crimping

(00:43:50) – Almost daily training

(00:49:08) – The basics

(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions

(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches

(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game

(01:24:43) – Finger training

(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14)

(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs

(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s

(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks

(02:02:56) – Daydreaming

(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail

(02:13:27) – One thing at a time

(02:17:19) – Writing books

(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11

(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts

(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict

(02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet

(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood

(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health

(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto

(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto

(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management

(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol

(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors

(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol

(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research

(03:54:50) Where to buy Dave’s book

Avsnitt(381)

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing lo...

27 Maj 20252h 3min

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens...

22 Maj 20251h 33min

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician a...

21 Maj 20253h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version o...

12 Maj 20252h 8min

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on A...

9 Maj 202538min

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and web...

28 Apr 20251h 21min

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project...

21 Apr 20252h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Apr 20252h 39min

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