EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge

EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge

This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2

Athletic Brewing:

Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers

Shop Athletic Brewing Beer

Nuggets:

1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a

5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength)

12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot”

16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session

20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength)

21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’s finger strength session

25:05 – “Snatches” on a campus board for contact strength

28:48 – Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock Off Challenge

33:00 – Sending ‘The Muffler’ V12, and plans to go back to ‘The Swarm’

34:30 – Highballs

37:28 – AJ’s parting thoughts for her team kids, and “never be afraid to stand up for what you believe in”

42:07 – Outro

Avsnitt(388)

BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets

BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets

Charlie Manganiello has been coaching with Climb Strong for seven years and now heads the Elemental Strength program in Lander, WY. We talked about focusing all of your energy on one thing, misconcept...

25 Sep 20201h 21min

BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief

BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief

Alex Bridgewater is a high-level rock climber who moved to Lander, WY in 2016, to train at Elemental as part of the Climb Strong Program. Alex now works for Climb Strong as a coach. We talked about hi...

23 Sep 20201h 26min

EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup

EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup

This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned ...

21 Sep 20202h 4min

EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits

EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits

Steve Bechtel is a strength coach and the founder of Climb Strong. We talked about the gift of changing your mind, lessons from studying sprinting and how to apply them to climbing, developing aerobic...

14 Sep 20201h 42min

EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower

EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower

Roger Volkmann is a retired Orthopedic Surgeon and a lifelong climber. Roger suffered a severe stroke in 2010 at age 55 and was not expected to walk again. Through sheer grit and determination, he man...

7 Sep 20201h 33min

EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity

EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity

Mike Kerzhner is a software engineer, an accomplished Yosemite climber, and an impressive all-rounder. We talked about growing up climbing and competing in Russia, moving to the States and climbing at...

31 Aug 20201h 44min

EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet

EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet

Natasha Barnes is a former professional climber, a national powerlifting champion, and a licensed chiropractor who specializes in strength training and rehabilitation for rock climbers. We talked abou...

24 Aug 20201h 58min

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

Maya Madere is a 21-year-old comp kid from Austin, TX. We talked about attending school at Stanford and studying computer science, the endurance training program that helped her transition from boulde...

17 Aug 20201h 48min

Populärt inom Utbildning

historiepodden-se
rss-bara-en-till-om-missbruk-medberoende-2
det-skaver
harrisons-dramatiska-historia
nu-blir-det-historia
rss-viktmedicinpodden
johannes-hansen-podcast
not-fanny-anymore
roda-vita-rosen
rss-foraldramotet-bring-lagercrantz
sektledare
allt-du-velat-veta
i-vantan-pa-katastrofen
sa-in-i-sjalen
rss-sjalsligt-avkladd
sex-pa-riktigt-med-marika-smith
rss-basta-livet
rikatillsammans-om-privatekonomi-rikedom-i-livet
rss-pa-insidan-med-bjorn-rudman
rss-traningsklubben