EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books. We talked about improving from 13d to 14d in 18 months, the ritual of approaching the fingerboard, how to reduce the risk of tendon injuries, interpreting scientific research, nutrient density, and more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-1

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:26) – The hardest thing Dave has ever downclimbed

(00:09:06) – Downclimbing for climbing up?

(00:09:57) – Going from 8b to 8c+ (13d to 14c) in 18 months as an experienced climber

(00:17:06) – Dave’s thoughts on fingerboarding 6-days per week vs. 2-3 days per week with longer sessions

(00:21:57) – Becoming less sure about things as time goes on, and the endurance study example

(00:24:25) – Dave’s theory about level of effort as the key to finger strength gains

(00:27:42) – The ritual of approaching the fingerboard, and pouring your passion for climbing into every set

(00:29:23) – The binary nature of climbing

(00:31:09) – How important each of the three ingredients (fingerboard, circuits, running) were to Dave’s jump from 8b to 8c+

(00:34:58) – More details about Dave’s outdoor circuits

(00:41:08) – Accounting for elite climbers who train vs. just climb

(00:47:12) – Hanging straight arm vs. bent arm, and considerations for Golfer’s Elbow

(00:50:54) – Learning about tendon injuries for ‘Make or Break’, theories on why tendons fail to adapt, possible environmental factors (sunlight, blood sugar, and linoleic acid), and what Dave is doing to reduce his own risk of tendon injuries

(00:57:14) – Dave’s thoughts on linoleic acid and seed oils

(01:02:06) – Epidemiological studies vs. interventional trials and experimental studies, and eggs and red meat as examples

(01:15:58) – Looking at diet through the ancestral lens

(01:20:10) – Dave’s recommendation to focus on nutrient density (regardless of dietary preference)

(01:24:22) – Getting interested in nutrition because of weight and seeking simplicity

(01:25:52) – Fingerboard grip selection, my recent half crimp assessment, and Chirs Sharma’s crimp grip

(01:33:55) – Training difference edge sizes vs. sticking to a basic 20mm, and thoughts on small hold training (10mm and below)