EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO, putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinder

Nuggets:

6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave

11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock

14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy

18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging

22:14 – “It’s a case-to-case scenario.”

24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines

27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing

33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction

34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating

38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks

43:59 – Embracing the plan B’s of life

44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries

49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth’ got its name

52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes’, proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style

58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes’, the send, and those special moments

1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes’, and needing to work

1:06:16 – Sushi celebration

1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes’ stacks up against Joe’s other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”

1:09:05 – Joe’s early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach

1:11:18 – Joe’s first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project

1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program

1:16:37 – ‘Activator’, watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk’, and Joe’s year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes’

1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe’s outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies’ project

1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk’ extension project

1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 1)

1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up

1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 2)

1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance

1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards

1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”

1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing

1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved

1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance

2:00:25 – Joe’s movies, LOV as a creative outlet

1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies

2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits

2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?

2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe’s nicknames for me

2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe’s experience climbing on established routes differ from FA’s?

2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?

2:25:05 – Graffiti

2:28:03 – Joe’s experience with cancelation

2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life

2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology

2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation

2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next

Avsnitt(379)

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the Freerider in Yosemite, bouldering after having kids, home wall training, the key to building persistent strength, bodyweight manipulation, energy availability, beginner's mind, feeling vs. analysing, weather forecasting hacks, how dew point affects climbing conditions, and much more. A lot of nuggets in this one.The GRINDS Program (FREE Training PDF)thenuggetclimbing.comRúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kerwin-loukusaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:05) – Flexibility journey(00:08:08) – Identifying limiting factors(00:10:38) – Stemming flexibility continued(00:16:39) – Freerider & Father TIme(00:24:15) – Bouldering after kids(00:26:56) – Mountain running & cardio(00:40:00) – Leveling up to V12 and V13(00:48:07) – Home wall training(01:09:54) – Off-the-wall training(01:11:28) – Building persistent strength(01:16:45) – Pillars 1-3: Proximetry, Rest, & Nutrition(01:32:23) – Know yourself(01:35:06) – Bodyweight & energy availability(01:48:13) – Pillar 4: Mindset(02:01:35) – Slingblade V13(02:10:03) – An obsessive brain(02:14:25) – Obstacles & growth(02:20:43) – Don’t get injured(02:23:42) – Slow & steady gains(02:32:46) – Ease into it(02:37:32) – Intuition & beta iteration(02:45:09) – Beginner's mind(02:50:39) – Feeling vs. analyzing(02:54:26) – Power spots(03:00:30) – Weather forecasting(03:18:03) – Dew point(03:22:43) – Cold rock(03:26:36) – Morning climbing(03:38:36) – Upcoming goals(03:40:50) – Mentorship & stewardship(03:46:18) – Public vs. private land

1 Sep 3h 53min

Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health

Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health

Robb Wolf is a 2x NYT Best-Selling Author (The Paleo Solution, Wired to Eat) and a leading voice in health, fitness, and nutrition. In this short segment, we cover the benefits of Vitamin D and Zone 2 cardio, how to optimize your strength training, Robb’s recent health struggles, and why you should never give up on your health. You can listen to the full episode by searching for Something Different with Steven Dimmitt wherever you get your podcasts.Robb’s Linksrobbwolf.comdrinklmnt.comjoin.thehealthyrebellion.comOther References:The Nugget - EP 80: Robb Wolf (our first podcast)Dminder AppTimestamps:00:00:00 – Intro00:02:30 – Vitamin D00:06:21 – Separating strength & conditioning00:14:58 – Zone 2 cardio00:20:51 – Robb’s training schedule00:24:56 – Recent health issues00:32:46 – Never give up00:34:06 – The Healthy Rebellion00:35:26 – Don’t major in the minors

25 Aug 36min

EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

Eryn Phelps is a licensed trauma counselor who specializes in helping outdoor athletes with anxiety, OCD, and PTSD. We talked about how EMDR helped cancer survivor and podcast guest Sol Wertkin, how to navigate time scarcity and get clear on what you want, overwhelm and panic attacks, grief and shame, labels and identity, and much more.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eryn-phelpsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:26) – Partners(00:05:56) – Sol Wertkin(00:12:54) – EMDR(00:27:19) – Sol continued(00:34:00) – Pity, empathy, & compassion(00:39:15) – Perception & victim mindset(00:54:41) – Preventing negative beliefs from taking root(01:00:08) – Mistakes, guilt, & shame(01:05:21) – Trauma from injury(01:10:21) – Grief(01:15:23) – Accepting risk(01:25:23) – Relationships(01:31:27) – Time scarcity & OCD(01:44:17) – Labels & identity(01:48:58) – Anxiety(01:51:53) – Overwhelm(01:58:39) – Panic attacks(02:04:06) – Curing anxiety, PTSD, & OCD(02:09:28) – Getting clear on what you want(02:24:02) – How Eryn makes decisions(02:26:40) – A grass kinda day(02:29:00) – Where to find Eryn(02:32:11) – Complacency & communication(02:36:44) – Dopamine

18 Aug 2h 39min

Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing

Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing

Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) is back again to share three new sports psychology skills that have the potential to change your climbing forever. We covered how to practice these skills in your day-to-day life, as well as how to put them into practice in your climbing, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode and support the podcast. *The full version is 1:28:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAlex’s Other Episodes:EP 276: Alex Bridgewater ReturnsBONUS: Alex BridgewaterNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:58) – Word to the wise(00:05:40) – Three skills overview(00:06:44) – Skill 1: Values-Based Work(00:28:17) – Skill 2: Dropping the Anchor(00:43:32) – Skill 3: Diffusion/Unhooking(01:01:49) – Putting the skills into practice(01:10:23) – What do you want?(01:18:02) – Expectations(01:22:43) – Manhunt(01:24:20) – Feeling vs. thinking

11 Aug 30min

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

Stevie Hochbaum is an elite boulderer who established the first V16, Obsidian, in Germany. We talked about nearly losing his finger to an infection, how he became obsessed with the project, what it feels like to spend 50+ sessions on a boulder, supportive friends, learning patience, training on the project, how losing weight affected his mental health, pacing and breathing, what’s next for Stevie, and much more.Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.NADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offRúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stevie-hochbaumNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:01) – Nicknames(00:04:58) – Swollen finger(00:12:24) – The process begins(00:20:47) – Investing everything(00:28:57) – What happens after 15 sessions(00:45:17) – Sending, disorientation, & celebrating(00:52:10) – Supportive friends & learning patience(01:04:16) – The unexpected send(01:09:46) – Training on the project(01:16:32) – Pacing & breathing(01:24:24) – Taking breaks(01:27:35) – Calorie deficit & mental health(01:33:13) – Bodyweight & small crimps(01:41:06) – Veganism(01:49:01) – Choosing our reality(01:53:00) – Inheritance(01:54:26) – What’s next for Stevie(01:57:14) – Dream trips

4 Aug 2h 3min

Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)

Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)

Rebecca Tickell is an award-winning filmmaker, author, environmental activist, and regenerative farmer. We talked about the journey that led to her films Kiss the Ground and Common Ground, the history of our soil and pesticides, why conventional farming is a cycle of degredation, the corruption of the agrochemical industry, Monsanto whistleblowers, how to feed the world, the global movement of regeneration, how to eat, bees & pollinators, and much more.AirDoctor (Best Rated Air Filters)Get up to $300 off AirDoctorAquaTru (Premium Water Filters)Get $100 off any AquaTru systemSupport the Podcast Directlypatreon.com/somethingdiffpodRebecca’s LinksKiss the GroundCommon GroundGroundswellBEE WILDOther References:The Detox ProjectWhitewash by Carey GillamTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:07) – The road to regeneration(00:11:51) – Storytelling(00:15:02) – Farmers & desertification(00:18:33) – A brief history of our soil(00:27:11) – Connecting to nature(00:28:48) – Two fun facts(00:30:29) – We don’t eat our food(00:33:26) – Sacrifice zones & human rights(00:38:21) – Glyphosate, wheat, oats, & chickpeas(00:44:47) – The good news(00:46:09) – Monsanto, Bayer, the EPA, & whistleblowers(00:49:36) – Feeding the world(00:56:04) – Soil regeneration(01:02:41) – A global movement(01:14:49) – How to eat(01:23:10) – USDA Organic(01:29:36) – High stakes(01:30:43) – Bees & insects(01:37:39) – Stories of hope(01:38:59) – Rebecca’s dream documentary(01:41:32) – Hopeful

28 Juli 1h 47min

EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

Andy Raether is a prolific sport climber, boulderer, and developer based in Las Vegas, NV. He also owns a climbing hold company and created the Woods Board. We talked about his intro to climbing and making holds, bringing routes and crags to life, sending his hardest boulder (Midlife Crisis V14) at 40 years old, how he trains on The Woods Board, how to master terrible holds, and much more.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemMad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.NADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offThe GRINDS Program (Free Training PDF)thenuggetclimbing.comThe NUG (My Portable Hangboard)frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/andy-raetherNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Climbing Magazine ad(00:03:52) – Andy’s origin story(00:09:44) – Legendary holds(00:13:49) – Making climbing holds(00:16:49) – Early rock climbing & development(00:23:54) – Menagerie(00:25:49) – Meeting his wife(00:28:33) – Moving to Vegas(00:32:07) – Dad Raether(00:39:00) – Vegas bolting potential(00:45:06) – Bringing crags to life(01:05:53) – Bouldering development(01:08:34) – Midlife Crisis V14(01:35:43) – Stronger at 40 than 20(01:40:15) – Dad Bod(01:45:04) – Grades(01:51:50) – Mithril(01:54:04) – James Litz(01:58:51) – The Woods Board(02:06:14) – The mentality of board climbing(02:10:58) – Monos(02:14:56) – How Andy trains on the Woods Board(02:27:30) – Where to climb on the Woods Board(02:29:08) – Iterating moves (“hangboard” boulder problems)(02:37:24) – Mirroring each try(02:41:57) – The Spot Battle(02:44:00) – Andy’s garage(02:46:02) – Gyms in Vegas(02:54:10) – Routesetter Unions(03:07:06) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

21 Juli 3h 11min

EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming

EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming

Jeremy Kiner is a Kentucky-based boulderer and sport climber. We talked about his journey to V10 and 5.13b, how he uses a board circuit as a training benchmark, his experience with the GRINDS finger training program, embracing double rest days, his diet and dealing with autoimmune issues, what he learned from working on two different regenerative farms, being a conscious consumer, and much more.Maui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenChilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offThe GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comBecome a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeremy-kinerNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:01) – Jeremy’s background(00:03:47) – Regenerative farming(00:05:46) – Resting a lot(00:11:39) – Abrahangs & weight room(00:13:06) – Jeremy’s climbing progression(00:23:58) – The thief of joy(00:27:55) – Never enough time(00:35:54) – Training circuit (strength boulder pyramid)(00:43:52) – Fun board climbing(00:45:40) – Different training chapters(00:51:29) – The GRINDS Program(00:58:50) – Breaking down finger training terms(01:05:35) – Unlevel edges(01:08:05) – Tweaky fingers(01:20:22) – There is no “best” way(01:26:43) – Things that work(01:28:58) – Things that don’t work(01:33:58) – Boards(01:40:02) – Jeremy’s diet & autoimmunity(01:47:28) – Where is your food coming from(01:54:03) – Regenerative farming continued(02:08:16) – Food subsidies & waste(02:13:01) – The other pillars of health(02:17:22) – Conscious consumer(02:20:53) – Wrap up

16 Juli 2h 23min

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