EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO, putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.

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Support the Podcast:

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi

Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinder

Nuggets:

6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave

11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock

14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy

18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging

22:14 – “It’s a case-to-case scenario.”

24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines

27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing

33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction

34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating

38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks

43:59 – Embracing the plan B’s of life

44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries

49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth’ got its name

52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes’, proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style

58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes’, the send, and those special moments

1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes’, and needing to work

1:06:16 – Sushi celebration

1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes’ stacks up against Joe’s other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”

1:09:05 – Joe’s early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach

1:11:18 – Joe’s first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project

1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program

1:16:37 – ‘Activator’, watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk’, and Joe’s year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes’

1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe’s outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies’ project

1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk’ extension project

1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 1)

1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up

1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 2)

1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance

1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards

1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”

1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing

1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved

1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance

2:00:25 – Joe’s movies, LOV as a creative outlet

1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies

2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits

2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?

2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe’s nicknames for me

2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe’s experience climbing on established routes differ from FA’s?

2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?

2:25:05 – Graffiti

2:28:03 – Joe’s experience with cancelation

2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life

2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology

2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation

2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next

Avsnitt(379)

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician and his own health journey, as well as the origins of allopathic medicine, seed oils and the hydroelectric dam analogy, what’s wrong with rodent studies and nutrition research, how to eat for optimal energy, leanness and performance, longevity in sports, setting 90 years of goals, the politicization of health, finding self-love, and much more. You can learn more about Justin at justinnault.com/stevenMaui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenNADS (Men's Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% off NADSHeadspace (Meditation App)Try it for Free for 14 DaysSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:04) – Justin’s life as a professional musician(00:08:10) – The costume(00:13:34) – Escapism(00:17:58) – Rocketman(00:20:18) – Collecting data from childhood(00:24:46) – Masochistic fitness(00:28:31) – Justin’s niece(00:33:52) – The origins of allopathic medicine(00:35:23) – The limitations of nutrition science(00:37:20) – Seed oils(00:41:44) – The hydroelectric dam analogy(00:46:38) – PUFAs, Omega-6s, & Omega-3s(00:48:31) – Hyperphysiological doses, & fat loss(00:54:37) – A cheap way to check your metabolic rate(00:56:17) – What happened to Primal Kitchen(01:01:24) – Capitalism is demand-driven(01:05:28) – Whose funnel am I in?(01:08:44) – Justin’s staple foods(01:10:59) – Cholesterol & thyroid health(01:19:21) – Carbs & saturated fat(01:24:20) – Calories, paleo, & metabolic rate(01:30:01) – Food is data(01:33:17) – Energy flux(01:38:06) – No more sugar cravings(01:41:17) – Architect of freedom(01:45:45) – Thyroid, carb sources, & dairy(01:49:11) – Fiber & blood glucose(01:50:16) – Sugar(01:57:07) – Fructose & fruit juice(01:59:24) – Rodent studies & nutrition research(02:04:41) – The illusion of authority(02:10:07) – The politicization of health(02:13:56) – Covid(02:21:56) – A journey of self-love(02:33:44) – Psychadelics & non-duality(02:37:46) – Is it working(02:45:07) – Top 5 daily prometabolic habits(02:48:49) – Equatorial living(02:51:33) – Leanness & performance(03:00:54) – Longevity in sports(03:03:16) – Justin’s athletic life(03:05:32) – 90 years of goals(03:08:05) – Where to find Justin

21 Maj 3h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version of yourself, his ideal training week, recovery tips, cardio, his optimistic view of climbing media, his goal to be intentional in all things, projecting tactics, hard projects in WA and Chile, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetMad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/facundo-langbehnNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – Breakfast & coffee(00:03:58) – Expression & language(00:06:39) – Climbing background(00:11:28) – Work(00:16:34) – Moving to Seattle(00:19:02) – Growing up in Chile(00:24:38) – Why(00:45:16) – The mental battle(00:51:12) – Exposure to hard boulders(00:55:00) – Hard projects in WA & Chile(00:57:48) – Scarcity & value(01:02:10) – Childhood(01:08:00) – Fast-paced society(01:10:28) – The character behind climbers(01:12:13) – Better storytelling(01:20:21) – Intentional(01:24:53) – My approach to improving(01:29:24) – Facundo’s approach to improving(01:35:35) – Projecting tactics(01:37:56) – Long careers(01:40:38) – Always peaking(01:44:05) – Facu’s ideal training week(01:51:15) – Recovery & cardio(01:59:02) – Best version all around(02:00:50) – Intentional continued(02:05:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

12 Maj 2h 8min

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

9 Maj 38min

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he’s lived in, the best budget options he’s found, essentials for $100 or less, heating systems, bathroom options, cooking tips, and much more.GSI Outdoors:Camp StovesGoSun:Solar CoolersOutdoorsy:Rent a Van or RV for your next adventure!Ignik:Sustainable Campfire Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bob-wellsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:39) – Bob’s background (00:04:36) – Life before the road(00:05:38) – Bob’s shed(00:09:39) – Big city vanlife  (00:15:38) – Full time vanlife(00:17:39) – First van(00:21:37) – Emergency bucket  (00:23:41) – City-specific van tips (00:29:40) – Progression of vehicles  (00:34:40) – Freedom on the road(00:38:40) – Most impressive setup(00:40:41) – Clever and unique setup(00:44:52) – Bang for your buck(00:47:57) – Avoiding burnout (00:51:52) – Dogs(00:55:56) – Bob’s future(00:58:57) – Practical advice for road life  (01:05:53) – $100 or less essentials (01:07:54) – Heating systems (01:10:55) – Van or truck tent canopy (01:15:45) – Longest trip in one week(01:17:43) – Beauty of Moab (01:19:43) – Where to find Bob

28 Apr 1h 21min

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallumNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)(00:19:10) – Board tactics(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?(00:26:14) – Getting outside(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up(00:34:07) – A typical week(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics(00:40:42) – 2 months on(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses(00:57:19) – The Spray layout(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes(01:11:36) – Working & setting(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside(01:31:57) – New board companies(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature(01:38:59) – Dream lines(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

21 Apr 2h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and  Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.beThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugTindeq 👉 tindeq.com  (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order)The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessensNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – The North Pole(00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood(00:22:38) – Early climbing(00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs(00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain(00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives(00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance(00:57:24) – A healing sabatical(01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued(01:10:20) – Meditation(01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method(01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain(01:27:39) – Happiness within(01:33:55) – Meditation continued(01:38:45) – Love(01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences(01:48:52) – Long covid(01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training(02:02:53) – Visualization(02:09:24) – Low-load training(02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control(02:12:41) – Recovery tips(02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation(02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing(02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude(02:30:31) – Closing questions

15 Apr 2h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith’s background(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

7 Apr 1h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodinNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)(00:20:07) – High-Low training(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity(The following topics are available for Patrons only)(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up(00:44:35) – Building your own board(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

1 Apr 29min

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