EP 229: Shauna Coxsey (Olympian) — Climbing Harder After Pregnancy, Motivation vs. Commitment, and Letting Kids Be Themselves
Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxseyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:30) – Frankie(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions(00:15:09) – Parenting(00:20:15) – Support network(00:22:06) – Shauna’s upbringing(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing(00:31:16) – Human nature(00:34:22) – Her first big competition(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids(00:47:54) – Frankie’s Nany, Arona(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips(01:24:02) – Commentating(01:28:17) – Tokyo(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom(01:41:10) – The magic of being here(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?(01:47:38) – Wrap up
15 Juli 20241h 50min
EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)
Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!Flex Master Discount:Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-toolsWatch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadleyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – CARCing(00:10:38) – Unstructured training(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments(00:32:14) – Abduction(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility(01:39:58) – Calve stretching(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers(01:52:24) – Reducing friction(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch(02:04:41) – Breathing(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting(02:27:49) – Wrap up
8 Juli 20242h 30min
EP 227: Nature Climbing — How to Prep Your Skin for a Trip, Hangboarding on Granite, and Building a Brand You Are Proud Of
How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!Use Code ‘NUGGET’ for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:08) – Banter(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature’s origin story(00:10:56) – Early holds(00:12:28) – Mads’ climbing background(00:16:28) – Pawel’s marketing background(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected(00:27:15) – Mads’ dream(00:28:32) – Pawel’s career pivot(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect(00:55:51) – Buying holds(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for(01:06:53) – Developing new products(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit(01:10:48) – World Cup routes(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles(01:23:00) – Proudest of(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch(01:29:54) – Training on granite(01:33:39) – Discount code
1 Juli 20241h 35min
EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjongNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence(00:26:22) – Our three batteries(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop(01:11:44) – Structuring practice(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment(01:21:00) – Three questions(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique(01:35:47) – Sending things faster(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats(01:50:43) – Board climbers(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
24 Juni 20242h 36min
EP 225: Steven Gets His Dream Home Wall! | ft. Tony Bell and David Bress, Founders of Revival Climbing Coalition
In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more! Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls:revivalclimbing.com/adjustable-climbing-wallRevival’s Landing Systems:revivalclimbing.com/custom-matsrevivalclimbing.com/standard-matsShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/revival-climbing-coalitionNuggets:00:00:00 – Intro00:01:45 – Breakfast banter00:04:06 – David’s background00:09:06 – Mount Moran00:13:09 – Tony’s background00:16:24 – Getting into the climbing wall industry00:21:09 – The birth of Revival Climbing Coalition00:25:00 – What sets Revival apart00:33:01 – The cost of the wall00:36:45 – The board00:39:10 – Turkeys00:40:25 – Bootstrapping and outsourcing00:45:12 – Biggest surprises00:47:37 – What sets their board apart00:52:49 – Engineered lumber00:56:38 – Sustainability01:00:36 – Ease of installation01:02:38 – Gym partners and shipping01:04:40 – The future of Revival01:08:45 – More about landing systems01:09:50 – What’s next for Revival01:13:31 – Wrap up
20 Juni 20241h 15min
EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal
Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecovaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all(00:18:08) – A natural talent(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends(00:30:04) – Sharing successes(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity(00:58:22) – Working with her coach(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength(01:08:09) – How her training has changed(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects(01:35:18) – Self-belief(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement(01:48:51) – Best decision(01:53:17) – Bug snacks(01:56:00) – Happiest moment(01:58:58) – Silver linings(02:03:11) – Proudest of(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:11:27) – Wrap up
17 Juni 20242h 16min
EP 223: Aidan Roberts — Navigating Pro Climbing, Establishing His Two Hardest Boulders, and Glimpsing Mastery
Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.Watch the Video Interview:EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:59) – Recooperation phase(00:08:18) – Powering through(00:10:24) – Course corrections(00:13:58) – Climbing as his work(00:21:45) – Enduring austerity(00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber(00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing(00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing(00:45:44) – Valuing integrity(00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable(00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences(01:04:23) – Aidan’s last year and a half(01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds)(01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall(01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou(01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project(01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time)(02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter(02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time(02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds(02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery(02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb(02:38:06) – Proposing grades(02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+?(03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating(03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps(03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA(03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude(03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams(03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering(03:32:48) – Wrap up
10 Juni 20243h 35min
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck
Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Fenix!fenix-store.comMy Go-To Headlamp: HL32R-TThe Cadillac of Headlamps: HM65R-T V2.0Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:10) – Life update from Steven(00:11:07) – OQS banter(00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)(00:18:48) – Wrist widgets(00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention(00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks(00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training(00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip(00:39:20) – Clarifying questions(00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work(00:48:52) – Nordic curls(00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries(00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift(00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks(00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab(00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads(01:08:11) – Stop firefighting(01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles(01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization(01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas(01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries(01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders(01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells(01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason(01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal(01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain(01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers(01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians(01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis(01:58:45) – The booty thrust(02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios(02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level(02:11:01) – What’s next for Paul(02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons
3 Juni 20242h 15min
