223: Ask Ryan | Quarantine Quad Series, Part 3

Discover two cidermaking techniques that are also used in winemaking, called Maderisation and Bâtonnage. We delve into both of these topics in Part 3 of the Quarantine Quad Series called "Ask Ryan" with Ryan Monkman of FieldBird Cider, Ontario Canada answering questions from Cider Chat listeners.

Maderisation: What is this technique and can it be used with cider?

Bâtonnage: are there any short term benefits from bâtonnage or does one need to "stir up the barrel" for a long period (1 year at the least) to benefit from this technique?

Listen Part 1 and Part 2 of the Quarantine Quad Series.

Maderisation - The barrels are cooked - sometimes for years. Developing flavors called "maderised".

• If done well it can be delicious.
• High alcohol cider is best for maderisation - slower bacterial growth. Cider that is has a low alcohol by volume - likely to get organism spikes.

FieldBird is planning to do a maderized cider from the 2020 harvest

• Northern Spy, fermented half way and fortified with apple brandy and let the barrel sit in a hot place.
• 17 Brix on the Spys (9%) ferment down half way and then add brandy. Getting 8% sugar.
• Sugar helps - creates the caramel flavor and provides an appearance of freshness.
• No MLF in the presence of sugar. Leave in cellar over the winter.
• Then leave the barrel outside all summer.
• 30 Celsius - 86 Farenheit.
  • This will cause the maderisation

The risk of maderisation is cooking a barrel to much

The final product will be around 17-18%

Battonage: Is it worth it if you don't have a full year to do Bâtonnage on a barrel?

• Nano proteins are the biggest benefit of Bâtonnage
  • They release into the cider providing a perception of sweetness and body with out the sugar
• Need at least 9 months to a year to get the nano proteins

There are short term benefits.

1. Yeast produces less carbon dioxide and bubbles.
   • They slow down after the first primary ferment.
   • Fermentation may have stopped but there is still sugar left.
2. Lees absorb off aromas, except for H2S rotting egg smell.
3. Bâtonnage helps to maintain a reductive state.
   • Full reduction - rotting smell is a type of reduction. Which helps protect the cider from oxidization and protect the flavor components.

In wine, a Sauvignon Blanc, has rich tropical flavors which come from a rich reductive state,

At FieldBird, they save lees in the freezer.

Cracking - the freeze helps the lees cells break down.

• Using frozen lees that have cracked - means it will takes only 4-5 months versus 8-9 months in the barrel to get the benefits from Bâtonnage

Contact for Ryan Monkman at FieldBird Cider

• website: https://www.fieldbird.ca/
• Instagram
  • FieldBird https://www.instagram.com/fieldbird.cider/
  • Ryan Monkman https://www.instagram.com/rgmonkman/

Mentions in this chat

• Stories in Ciderville - send in fiction and nonfiction essays to read out loud on Cider Chat to ria@ciderchat.com
• September 1-6, 20202 England Cider Tour

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