Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast2 Okt 2023

#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium

In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.

I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Greetings

0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium

1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine

3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC.

DAY 1 (abridged)

7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl

7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers.

9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA)

10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers

11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom.

13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps?

15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers

17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders)

DAY 2 (abridged)

18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline

22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction

23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts

24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers

27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse

DAY 3 (abridged)

30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. Get it here >>

31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance

32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness

32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. Listen to Episode #22 first >>

33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance.

36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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