Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast4 Feb 2025

#112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham

Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement.

0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD.

2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory

3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance.

6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today.

7:35 - Tips for older climbers.

10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training.

11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts.

13:00 - Scheduling your workouts.

15:45 - Specificity of training.

17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset.

19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals.

21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting.

24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment.

27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes.

29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions.

30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks.

31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers.

33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting...

36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets.

38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers.

38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries...

40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals.

41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status.

42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training).

44:45 - Developing better recovery practices.

46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing.

46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential.

48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing!

50:35 - Wrap up

50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram

51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel. Subscribe!

51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts

51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out!

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Music by Misty Murphy

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