Noah Wheeler: Sending Burden, Finger Training (and Injury), the Next Proj, and the Dab Heard Round the World

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https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

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Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores:

• Specific training for Burden
• The dab ascent and what happened after
• Is Burden really V17?
• The change that unlocked the send
• Board climbing vs hang boarding
• Mindset tools to lock in for a send
• What Daniel Woods taught him
• Half crimp vs full crimp
• The next V17 on his list
• The happiness advantage

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Secret App Launch 02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro 06:33 Goals and Process 11:51 Evolving Through Struggle 18:18 Board Training Origins 21:15 Board Sessions and Volume 24:05 Intentional Climber Break 26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep 31:10 The Dab and Redemption 36:24 Dab Send Debate 37:25 Grading Burden Reality 42:10 V17 Or Downgrade 43:17 New Beta Breakdown 47:12 Micro Beta Anchors 50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot 52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup 53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine 57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes 59:44 Footwork Pull Away 01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness 01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics 01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases 01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux 01:11:36 Embodiment Tools 01:15:50 Happiness Advantage 01:19:35 What’s Next Plans 01:20:53 Board Style Dreams 01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision 01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug 01:28:00 Host App Pitch 01:29:28 Climbing Reflections 01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!