
Botanical, Chemical, or Biotech? The False Choices of Modern Skincare
Send us Fan Mail Botanical, chemical, or biotech? The beauty industry loves to sell these as three opposing worlds: natural is pure and gentle, chemical is harsh and suspicious, biotech is futuristic ...
3 Marras 49min

INCI Lists and Ingredient-Checking Websites: Why They Can Mislead You
Send us Fan Mail You’ve done it, and I’ve done it too. You photograph an ingredient list, paste it into a checker app, and seconds later you get a verdict in red, yellow and green: toxic, questionable...
27 Loka 43min

Why “Preservative-Free” Skincare Is a Red Flag
Send us Fan Mail Few words frighten people in skincare like “preservatives.” We’ve been taught that preservative-free sounds clean, paraben-free sounds safer, and natural sounds best. But here’s the s...
20 Loka 41min

Smoother Skin in Minutes: The Science of Film Formers
Send us Fan Mail Some skincare feels like magic: a serum that smooths your skin in three minutes, an eye product that makes bags vanish on camera, a primer that turns pores into glass. We tend to cred...
13 Loka 35min

Emulsifiers, Stabilisers and Thickeners: The Invisible Architecture
Send us Fan Mail A few days ago, a lovely, thoughtful client asked to return an unopened product. She'd spotted a "cross polymer" on the ingredient list, read that it might be a microplastic, and didn...
6 Loka 27min

Creams and Emulsions (Pt.1): From Galen to Nivea and The Surprising History of Cream
Send us Fan Mail A cream looks like the most ordinary thing in your bathroom: white, soft, familiar, a little boring. But I'm here to tell you it's the single most sophisticated structure in all of sk...
22 Syys 26min

The Most Misunderstood Ingredient in Skincare: Water
Send us Fan Mail "It's mostly water, I'm not paying for that." If you've ever thought about a skincare product, this episode is for you, because water might be the most underestimated, misunderstood i...
15 Syys 38min



















