EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!

Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.

Troy's Video:

Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Austin's Previous Episode:

EP 97: Austin Hoyt

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryce

Nuggets:

0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes

0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”

0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences

0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding

0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line

0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project

0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video

0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool

0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far

0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands

0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing

0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun

0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain

0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it

0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?

1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job

1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia

1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list

1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training

1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection

1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent

1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors

1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders

1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal

1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes

1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas

1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala

1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”

1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?

1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands

1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing

1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy

1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip

1:57:28 – Airstar getting action

1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs

1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North

2:01:00 – Near misses

Jaksot(382)

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recover...

29 Kesä 20201h 4min

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

Jasna Hodžić is part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to...

22 Kesä 20202h 20min

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin fo...

15 Kesä 20201h 55min

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

Ethan Pringle is one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world. We talked about practice vs. training, lessons learned from 50 days projecting ‘The Nest’, taking care of his dad and his experi...

8 Kesä 20202h 1min

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

Chad Andrews is the maker of the Clipping Chains blog—a resource to help climbers navigate personal finance and move towards financial independence. We talked about reaching retirement at age 35, simp...

1 Kesä 20201h 52min

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbi...

25 Touko 202044min

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

Mikey Schaefer is a photographer, filmmaker, and an all-around climber whose accomplishments range from dangerous first ascents in the mountains to 5.13+ big walls, 5.14 sport climbs, and V10 boulders...

18 Touko 20201h 53min

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

Drew Ruana is a 20-year-old boulderer, sport climber, and competition climber who is quickly becoming one of the best rock climbers in the world. We talked about climbing ‘Sleepwalker’ (his first V16)...

11 Touko 20201h 34min

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