EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:34) – The Murder Room

(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago

(00:10:02) – Molly’s background

(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s

(00:14:45) – The language of movement

(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master

(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s

(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes

(00:34:36) – The power of climbing

(00:35:49) – Getting her L5

(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting

(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting

(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends

(01:00:54) – Coordination

(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead

(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation

(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter

(01:12:10) – A tide shift

(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries

(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing

(01:24:49) – Finding separation

(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu

(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River

(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters

(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?

(01:52:14) – Splitting the field

(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”

(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(382)

EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect

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EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects

EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects

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EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades

EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades

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EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do

EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do

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EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder

EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder

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EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life

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EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization

EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization

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EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way

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