EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jerome

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:12) – Hit & run

(00:04:42) – The recovery process

(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift

(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project

(00:13:23) – A really fun game

(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing

(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food

(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber

(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose

(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing

(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah

(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders

(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New

(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia

(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude

(01:37:45) – More about The New

(01:46:09) – Life going forward

(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New

(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK

(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA

(02:03:19) – Building a database

(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA

(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features

(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(381)

EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’

EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his ...

29 Tammi 20241h 39min

SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in Fran...

27 Tammi 20241h 9min

EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finge...

22 Tammi 20242h 44min

EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids

EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids

James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learni...

15 Tammi 20243h 26min

EP 200: Brooke Raboutou —  An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends

EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for comp...

8 Tammi 20241h 54min

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will ...

18 Joulu 20233h 1min

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned ...

11 Joulu 20232h 53min

EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect

EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest compet...

4 Joulu 20231h 40min

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