EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jerome

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:12) – Hit & run

(00:04:42) – The recovery process

(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift

(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project

(00:13:23) – A really fun game

(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing

(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food

(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber

(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose

(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing

(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah

(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders

(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New

(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia

(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude

(01:37:45) – More about The New

(01:46:09) – Life going forward

(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New

(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK

(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA

(02:03:19) – Building a database

(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA

(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features

(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(382)

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our ...

20 Maalis 20232h 8min

EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having ...

13 Maalis 202359min

EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make

EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing ...

6 Maalis 20231h 59min

EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique

EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are funda...

27 Helmi 20231h 7min

Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from ...

23 Helmi 202328min

EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to ...

20 Helmi 20231h 51min

EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip

EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip

Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climb...

13 Helmi 202356min

EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency

EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency

Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest...

6 Helmi 20232h 22min

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