EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower

EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower

Roger Volkmann is a retired Orthopedic Surgeon and a lifelong climber. Roger suffered a severe stroke in 2010 at age 55 and was not expected to walk again. Through sheer grit and determination, he managed not only to walk again but to climb. We talked about his stroke, his five principles of life, climbing in the Midwest as a kid, and his three attempts to summit Devils Tower after the stroke.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/roger-volkmann

Roger’s Five Principles of Life:

1 – Life is Movement

2 – Tough is Better Than Strong

3 – Work Pays Off

4 – People are Inherently Good

5 – God Listens to Prayer

Nuggets:

2:38 – Building the spiral staircase for Roger’s treehouse

3:44 – Wood projects, and Roger’s retirement plan

4:59 – Stage 1 of Roger’s incident: the carotid dissection, and the bike crash

10:10 – Losing the farm in an F5 tornado, missing teeth, and going back to work on Monday

12:47 – The seizure, transferring to St. Paul Hospital, and the frozen skull bone

17:16 – Waking up into a nightmare, “a state of denial and a state of confusion”, vomiting, hiccups, and losing feeling in his leg

20:53 – Roger’s first two principles of life, and tough vs. strong

22:56 – Roger’s third principle of life, taking a jet back to Wenatchee, and falling down unannounced

27:37 – The Paris Marathon, rewiring the brain, and ambulating

30:49 – “Unpromising moments”, and re-learning how to walk

32:43 – Roger’s physical therapist, caffeine, and walking The Loop trail w/ Grace

35:14 – Cutting his teeth climbing at Devils Tower

36:36 – The goal to re-climb Devils Tower after the stroke

38:02 – Small goals, climbing at Vantage, and re-learning how to tie his shoes one-handed

40:03 – Climbing one-handed, milestones, and attempting “The Tower” for the first time post-stroke

43:25 – Roger’s fourth principle of life, and finding what you look for in people

44:28 – More about the first attempt on Devils Tower, Roger’s worse climbing experience (being lowered in the dark), and rain and lightning

47:00 – The second failed attempt, and the third (and successful) attempt on Devils Tower post-stroke

59:59 – Left side neglect, disinhibition, and impatience

1:04:39 – Praying to make it through the day, and doing one constructive thing per day

1:05:57 – Roger’s fifth principle of life, squeaky pears, and a home math problem

1:09:59 – Climbing the dairy barn at age 10 and vaulting through the hay door

1:13:44 – Bird boxes and climbing trees

1:17:26 – Climbing silos

1:20:50 – Climbing ‘Aortic Arch’ (A1)

1:23:02 – A Patron Question, “More work more reward”, and effort vs. work

1:25:55 – Gratitude

1:27:06 – Roger’s next goal

1:27:49 – Returning to Devils Tower to be a tourist, Roger’s prosthesis, and Fat Tire beer

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EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and t...

18 Elo 2h 12min

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Heinä 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Kesä 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Kesä 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

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