EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.

Donate To:

safeclimbing.org

climbmalawi.com

climbinginitiative.org

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeo

Nuggets:

5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary

6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland

9:50 – Working in Ireland

10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi

14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi

17:25 – Description of Malawi, the topography, and rock climbing

21:39 – The population of Malawi, and why so many people move there from neighboring African countries

24:23 – Day-to-day life in Malawi

27:05 – Having a housekeeper, and the risks of creating an upside-down economy

30:05 – Good intentions gone awry

32:58 – Tyler’s climbing leading up to Malawi, and building a wall in his backyard

37:21 – The socioeconomic divide in Malawi, and how Climb Malawi was born

42:26 – Other artificial climbing in Malawi

44:50 – Outgrowing the backyard climbing wall

45:35 – Local climbing in Malawi

47:24 – The Climb Malawi climbing wall and location description

52:44 – Ernest

54:29 – Outdoor trips and introducing Malawians to rock climbing

55:31 – Memphis Rox as an inspiration, and the Climb Malawi business model

1:00:03 – The impact of covid on Climb Malawi, and Malawi itself

1:03:17 – Tyler’s continued involvement with Climb Malawi

1:05:38 – How living in Malawi has shaped Tyler’s perspective of what the global climbing community looks like

1:09:05 – Ugly entitlement, the game of climbing, and introducing people to climbing with humility

1:14:11 – The Chichewa language, and some route names and phrases

1:18:47 – Bodie and Moses (Tyler’s adopted boys)

1:22:42 – Tyler’s thoughts on moving to Denver with two black sons, and how to provide them with mentorship

1:31:33 – “Try to use your privilege with honor.”

1:33:16 – The Climbing Initiative

1:49:48 – How listeners can support Climb Malawi and TCI

1:51:45 – Tyler’s current climbing, and working on his mental performance and making sport climbing more life-giving

1:58:43 – Who’s doing the more impressive thing, climbing at your emotional limit, grades, and having a relationship with each route

2:03:01 – A better world through climbing

2:07:35 – Gratitude for family and his wife

Jaksot(384)

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Maalis 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Helmi 20252h

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic an...

17 Helmi 20252h 30min

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journ...

10 Helmi 20252h 1min

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushi...

5 Helmi 202538min

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of t...

3 Helmi 20251h 45min

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoeche...

27 Tammi 20253h 8min

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard ...

20 Tammi 20252h 23min

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