EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project.

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/callie-joy-black

Nuggets:

0:05:28 – Overview of this podcast episode, and her son’s pants-shitting story

0:12:00 – Why Joy studied Spanish in college, getting pregnant, being a single mom, and studying nutrition

0:15:19 – Being obsessed with movement, getting into climbing, and her path to becoming a strength coach

0:19:09 – Why Joy chose to specialize in training during pregnancy and post-partum recovery

0:24:26 – How male listeners can benefit from this conversation, and how the pelvic floor affects movement

0:28:43 – Being scared of pregnancy, and two things Joy wishes someone had told her when she was pregnant for the first time

0:32:39 – Fall risk with climbing when pregnant

0:41:37 – Where Joy lives and where she usually climbs

0:42:59 – Joy’s three pregnancies

0:49:14 – Making the best decision for you and your pregnancy

0:50:33 – When is it ok to climb after pregnancy?

0:56:43 – Educating your doctor

0:59:29 – How to support your climbing during pregnancy with strength training, and the role of the pelvic floor

1:07:08 – Empowering women to lift heavier things

1:18:00 – How Joy gets buy-in from women who are nervous to strength train

1:26:04 – Changing from a performance mindset to an exploratory mindset

1:27:52 – One of my favorite quotes from Steve Bechtel, and writing the forward to his book Mettle

1:30:16 – Losing members of your climbing community when they have kids, and sharing climbing with your kids

1:33:06 – Is it possible to climb just as hard after pregnancy and having kids?

1:40:38 – Joy’s current climbing goal to climb 5.12, and working with Maddie from Lattice Training

1:42:32 – Get a hangboard!

1:42:59 – Being selfish and creating boundaries

1:50:27 – A question from Mina about key lightbulb moments

1:55:17 – Relaxin (hormone) and hangboarding during pregnancy

2:02:34 – More resources for breath work and pelvic floor training

2:11:27 – Breathing into your butthole

2:12:54 – Joy’s tips for using Instagram as a business owner

2:19:23 – Love and muscles

2:20:51 – “The best project you will ever work on is you.”

2:23:02 – My current life project

2:27:44 – Joy’s current life project

2:31:13 – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recover...

29 Kesä 20201h 4min

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

Jasna Hodžić is part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to...

22 Kesä 20202h 20min

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin fo...

15 Kesä 20201h 55min

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

Ethan Pringle is one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world. We talked about practice vs. training, lessons learned from 50 days projecting ‘The Nest’, taking care of his dad and his experi...

8 Kesä 20202h 1min

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

Chad Andrews is the maker of the Clipping Chains blog—a resource to help climbers navigate personal finance and move towards financial independence. We talked about reaching retirement at age 35, simp...

1 Kesä 20201h 52min

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbi...

25 Touko 202044min

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

Mikey Schaefer is a photographer, filmmaker, and an all-around climber whose accomplishments range from dangerous first ascents in the mountains to 5.13+ big walls, 5.14 sport climbs, and V10 boulders...

18 Touko 20201h 53min

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

Drew Ruana is a 20-year-old boulderer, sport climber, and competition climber who is quickly becoming one of the best rock climbers in the world. We talked about climbing ‘Sleepwalker’ (his first V16)...

11 Touko 20201h 34min

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