EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance

EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.

Listen to more top episodes!

thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists

Check out Petzl!

petzl.com

Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!

Check out Chalk Cartel!

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out PhysiVantage!

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)

Check out Arc'teryx!

arcteryx.com

Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwell

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:07:08) – What is your Dawn Wall?

(00:07:59) – Tommy’s injury and his canceled trip to Germany

(00:09:53) – Tommy’s Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability

(00:15:21) – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy’s climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)

(00:17:35) – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO

(00:20:17) – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor

(00:23:05) – Matty Hong’s repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy’s thoughts on the grade

(00:25:20) – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris

(00:28:48) – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering

(00:30:04) – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do

(00:31:56) – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?

(00:34:00) – Patron Question from Atlin: What’s the next big objective that hasn’t been done in Yosemite?

(00:35:16) – Leo Houlding’s vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold

(00:38:46) – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainebleau

(00:41:13) – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches

(00:46:42) – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?

(00:47:55) – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?

(00:52:18) – Tommy’s TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything

(00:55:17) – Toenail fungus, and Tommy’s experience with Lamasil

(00:58:59) – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work

(01:01:15) – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad

(01:08:38) – Tommy’s parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”

(01:12:13) – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?

(01:13:53) – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?

(01:19:16) – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?

(01:20:40) – The story behind Tommy’s repeated achilles injury

(01:25:25) – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?

(01:27:22) – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos

(01:29:26) – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?

(01:30:27) – The king line on El Cap

(01:34:45) – Future linkups in Yosemite

(01:36:57) – Tommy’s favorite Disney movie

(01:37:36) – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience

(01:40:19) – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners

(01:42:35) – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?

(01:42:58) – Big wall pooping stories

(01:45:22) – Another book?

(01:46:34) – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine

(01:49:31) – Wrap up

Jaksot(385)

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

What if you could eat the healthiest meat on the planet while helping the environment? Jake Muise is the CEO and founder of Maui Nui Venison, and joins me to talk about sustainable food and the future...

1 Heinä 20251h 15min

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese professional climber and a living legend. We talked about visualizing his onsight attempt on The Salathe, channeling support into power, Daniel Woods, Mount Kinabalu, Japan...

23 Kesä 20251h 57min

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Eric Edmeades is often referred to as the “Indiana Jones” of the professional speaking world. He has been traveling to Africa to visit the Hadza, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups, sinc...

16 Kesä 20252h 23min

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

Seneida Biendarra is the 2023 US National Champion in the women’s B2 (severely blind) category. We talked about losing her vision as a teenager, her current visual experience, creating mental maps of ...

9 Kesä 20252h 31min

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing lo...

27 Touko 20252h 3min

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens...

22 Touko 20251h 33min

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician a...

21 Touko 20253h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version o...

12 Touko 20252h 8min

Suosittua kategoriassa Koulutus

rss-murhan-anatomia
psykopodiaa-podcast
voi-hyvin-meditaatiot-2
rss-narsisti
adhd-podi
rahapuhetta
rss-rahamania
kesken
psykologia
rss-liian-kuuma-peruna
rss-vapaudu-voimaasi
rss-niinku-asia-on
esa-saarinen-filosofia-ja-systeemiajattelu
rss-arkea-ja-aurinkoa-podcast-espanjasta
filocast-filosofian-perusteet
rss-eron-alkemiaa
rss-valo-minussa-2
rss-luonnollinen-synnytys-podcast
rss-koira-haudattuna
rss-helppoa-suomea-learn-finnish-through-comprehensible-input